Flee, Fleas!
Walk down any street and one is likely to see a dog busy scratching or chewing. Fleas are most likely the culprit causing so much distress. But, fleas cause more than distress. Flea ridden puppies can actually become anemic! Many dogs build up an allergy to the saliva and only one flea bite can send them in to frenzies of chewing often resulting in “hot spots” – raw patches of skin with secondary infections. It is said that the itch can become so bad dogs have chewed holes in their legs and tails - and worse.
Traditionally people race to the pesticides (flea collars, spot-ons, shampoos, etc.) to give their dogs relief from the bothersome pests and, frankly, that is necessary, but, there are other actions to take also. Please note that when you put a pesticide permeated collar on a dog and you stroke that dog you are being exposed to those pesticides! .Let’s look at some additional actions you can take.
It may surprise some but the very first place to begin controlling parasites – not just fleas! – is with the immune system. The healthier a dog (or cat!) is, the better the immune system, the more likely she can resist being attacked by these dreadful critters. Diet plays a huge part here.
Feed what your dog is meant to eat – fresh meat and RAW bones - other things, too, but grains or other forms of carbohydrates are NOT needed nor advised. Totally avoid cheap commercial products which are most likely to contain colorings, sugar, chemical preservatives and most certainly no high quality sources of meat.* It is said that these ingredients (colorings, chemical preservatives, etc.) contain toxins which are secreted, at least in part, through the hair follicles and can exacerbate skin problems including flea bite dermatitis.
The supplement I recommend above all others is omega 3s from salmon oil. Salmon oil is full of essential fatty acids that promote healthy hair and skin. A clove of fresh garlic added to your dog’s diet at least several times a week builds up the immune system and is also considered to be great for parasite control! Garlic does a lot more, incidentally. (Use caution with cats! They are more susceptible to a form of anemia caused by damage to red blood cells associated with garlic and onions. Try brewer’s yeast instead.)
Groom your dog (and cat!) frequently. Dead hair and mats give fleas a lovely home in which to hide and breed. Dogs are at a serious disadvantage in their attempts to kill those critters buried deep in a mat.*** Daily grooming is probably ideal with long haired dogs but grooming at least every other day when dealing with any fleas is a must. Get a flea comb and use it. Flea combs are useful only for adult fleas, of course. Give special attention to under the arms, groin area, and base of the tail.
Regular bathing if you build up lots of lather and leave it on for 10 minutes minimum will kill fleas – it smothers them. First make a ring of lather around your dog’s neck so fleas do not all run to high ground. Then progress so that the entire body of the dog is covered in lather of a high quality organic canine shampoo - no chemicals, please! Flea-repelling shampoos will contain oils such as lavender, rosemary, tea tree, mint and citrus.
Since fleas and their various life forms do not spend all their time on dogs you must treat the environment. Vacuum**anything that can be reached by your vacuum cleaner daily, wash anything that can be laundered at least weekly and sprinkle cedar shavings, lavender seeds or eucalyptus leaves in and around areas frequented by the dog.
Unprocessed diatomaceous earth (not the pool type) can be sprinkled in cracks, corners of floors and even on carpets to kill fleas. Keep gardens free of flea breeding grounds: accumulations of leaves, brush, cool shady areas – fleas do not like sun!
Keep in mind that when you resort to chemically based products your dog AND you are exposed to these chemicals. It may be a way to start to get control but please reread this article for the very best ways to have a flea free critter in your home.
*The protein count comes primarily from grains – dogs did not evolve to eat grains! Cats MUST have meat for health!!!!
**Good use (maybe the best?) of a flea collar is to cut off a piece of it, place in the vacuum cleaner bag and toss bag and the whole shebang.
***When dogs successfully kill fleas they often ingest fleas and they will very likely ingest tape worm eggs!!!! The presence of tape worms is indicated when one sees white rice like things around the anus.
CHARLOTTE PELTZ
C.A.B.C. Emeritus
707 923 3477
A blog and online reference by Charlotte Peltz, for all creatures great and small!
Showing posts with label Nutrition. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nutrition. Show all posts
Friday, July 10, 2015
CANCER – How You Can Help
CANCER - How Can You Help?
Almost nothing is being done to stop the causes of cancer in dogs but there are things that you CAN do to lower the risks. Dr. Larry Glickman, veterinarian and epidemiologist at Purdue University has no doubt that at least some of the cancer in our canine companions is a result of the pesticides and insecticides used in agriculture, household cleaners, paints, toys made of synthetic materials and additives in the food we feed them. We know that many of these agents do cause cancer in people so it is only logical the same applies to our pets.
While the major studies are done for people a few studies have been done with animals. In 1983 Glickman and his colleagues discovered that dogs exposed to asbestos were at risk of getting a rare form of cancer, mesothelioma. It has also been clearly indicated that dogs whose owners smoke are at increased risk of nasal cancer. He says that long nosed dogs are two times more likely to develop nasal cancer and the incidence of nasal cancer increases with the number of packs of cigarettes the household members smoke each day! Short nosed dogs are more likely to develop lung cancer.
Dr. Glickman’s own research, as reported in 1989 in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, indicates female canines exposed to the pesticides in flea sprays and dips are at higher risk of developing bladder cancer than those not similarly exposed. A study done in 2004 that focused on spot-on products such as FRONTLINE* and ADVANTAGE* are not similarly affected. These products, while most definitely pesticides, are “minimally” absorbed into the bloodstream and therefore are not excreted via the bladder or possibly excreted in quite minimal quantities. Research has linked 2-4-D with cancer. This is marketed under names such as Ded-Weed, Lawn-Keep, Plantgard, and others. The Chemical Industry Task Force found no such results in their studies (Imagine that!) but a 1994 study presented in the scientific journal Cancer, Epidemiology, Biomarkers and Prevention, showed that dogs exposed to lawns treated with 2-4-D within seven days of application were 50 times more likely to have high levels of the herbicide in their systems than dogs exposed after 7 days. The highest levels were in dogs that walked on the lawns within two days of application!
In addition to the overall risk to our canines there are, sad to say, some breeds of dogs with incredibly high risks of getting cancer. Scottish Terriers are at 18 times the risk of getting bladder cancer when exposed to lawns sprayed with herbicides when compared to mixed breeds. And the lovely Golden Retriever breed, (not alone in this category!) is 60% more likely to die of cancer than the overall average of 20 to 30 % , says Dr. Larry Glickman.
Diet also plays a huge part in cancer in canines. It is commonly accepted that a female spayed at an early age is at a much lower risk of mammary cancer than an intact female but there is another factor at work here. Diet! One study indicated that dogs overweight at one year of age were 3 times as likely to develop mammary cancer – THREE TIMES! Another study indicated that those females operated on for mammary cancer and fed a diet with “protein greater than 27 percent on a dry matter basis” were likely to live three years following the surgery while females fed a low fat diet and less than 23 percent protein survived less than 6 months. Clearly the quality of the food we feed our dogs gains importance by the day. The cheaper the food the more likely the ingredients have not been carefully screened and will have larger amounts of pesticides, often include chemical “flavoring”, colorings and other additives, and poor quality protein, to say the very least.
The “cheap” foods may not be so cheap after all if we compare the cost to the lives of our dogs.
While we cannot change the world we can avoid subjecting our dogs to pesticides and herbicides that WE opt to spray in our gardens and on our lawns. We can avoid harmful pesticides that are used to bathe our dogs and are sprayed on them. We can stop using harmful products to wash the floors in the house and to clean any surface the pets may come in contact with their feet or have to smell. We can stop smoking or at the very least not smoke in the house where they spend so much time. We can use organic products to a much greater extent than we do. And, finally, we can feed them so much better than we do.
*Use caution with ANY such elements introduced into your dog’s life. Always seek less invasive ways to solve problems. At this time - 2015 - there are many reports that various spot-on flea/tick treatments are no longer as effective. Resistance appears to be a clear issue.
CHARLOTTE PELTZ
C.A.B.C. Emeritus
707-923-3477
Almost nothing is being done to stop the causes of cancer in dogs but there are things that you CAN do to lower the risks. Dr. Larry Glickman, veterinarian and epidemiologist at Purdue University has no doubt that at least some of the cancer in our canine companions is a result of the pesticides and insecticides used in agriculture, household cleaners, paints, toys made of synthetic materials and additives in the food we feed them. We know that many of these agents do cause cancer in people so it is only logical the same applies to our pets.
While the major studies are done for people a few studies have been done with animals. In 1983 Glickman and his colleagues discovered that dogs exposed to asbestos were at risk of getting a rare form of cancer, mesothelioma. It has also been clearly indicated that dogs whose owners smoke are at increased risk of nasal cancer. He says that long nosed dogs are two times more likely to develop nasal cancer and the incidence of nasal cancer increases with the number of packs of cigarettes the household members smoke each day! Short nosed dogs are more likely to develop lung cancer.
Dr. Glickman’s own research, as reported in 1989 in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, indicates female canines exposed to the pesticides in flea sprays and dips are at higher risk of developing bladder cancer than those not similarly exposed. A study done in 2004 that focused on spot-on products such as FRONTLINE* and ADVANTAGE* are not similarly affected. These products, while most definitely pesticides, are “minimally” absorbed into the bloodstream and therefore are not excreted via the bladder or possibly excreted in quite minimal quantities. Research has linked 2-4-D with cancer. This is marketed under names such as Ded-Weed, Lawn-Keep, Plantgard, and others. The Chemical Industry Task Force found no such results in their studies (Imagine that!) but a 1994 study presented in the scientific journal Cancer, Epidemiology, Biomarkers and Prevention, showed that dogs exposed to lawns treated with 2-4-D within seven days of application were 50 times more likely to have high levels of the herbicide in their systems than dogs exposed after 7 days. The highest levels were in dogs that walked on the lawns within two days of application!
In addition to the overall risk to our canines there are, sad to say, some breeds of dogs with incredibly high risks of getting cancer. Scottish Terriers are at 18 times the risk of getting bladder cancer when exposed to lawns sprayed with herbicides when compared to mixed breeds. And the lovely Golden Retriever breed, (not alone in this category!) is 60% more likely to die of cancer than the overall average of 20 to 30 % , says Dr. Larry Glickman.
Diet also plays a huge part in cancer in canines. It is commonly accepted that a female spayed at an early age is at a much lower risk of mammary cancer than an intact female but there is another factor at work here. Diet! One study indicated that dogs overweight at one year of age were 3 times as likely to develop mammary cancer – THREE TIMES! Another study indicated that those females operated on for mammary cancer and fed a diet with “protein greater than 27 percent on a dry matter basis” were likely to live three years following the surgery while females fed a low fat diet and less than 23 percent protein survived less than 6 months. Clearly the quality of the food we feed our dogs gains importance by the day. The cheaper the food the more likely the ingredients have not been carefully screened and will have larger amounts of pesticides, often include chemical “flavoring”, colorings and other additives, and poor quality protein, to say the very least.
The “cheap” foods may not be so cheap after all if we compare the cost to the lives of our dogs.
While we cannot change the world we can avoid subjecting our dogs to pesticides and herbicides that WE opt to spray in our gardens and on our lawns. We can avoid harmful pesticides that are used to bathe our dogs and are sprayed on them. We can stop using harmful products to wash the floors in the house and to clean any surface the pets may come in contact with their feet or have to smell. We can stop smoking or at the very least not smoke in the house where they spend so much time. We can use organic products to a much greater extent than we do. And, finally, we can feed them so much better than we do.
*Use caution with ANY such elements introduced into your dog’s life. Always seek less invasive ways to solve problems. At this time - 2015 - there are many reports that various spot-on flea/tick treatments are no longer as effective. Resistance appears to be a clear issue.
CHARLOTTE PELTZ
C.A.B.C. Emeritus
707-923-3477
Tuesday, May 7, 2013
Canine Obesity, Part Two
Are you killing your dog?
Did you instantly respond - Of course not! I love my dog! - ? Well, let's look at the facts. Have
you checked your dog's "waistline" lately? Can you actually see the ribs? If your dog has long
hair can you feel the ribs with only the amount of pressure it would take to barely dent the flesh
of an over ripe avocado? If you have trouble with these questions than it could well be that
your dog is fat - even obese.
Some estimates state that in excess of 80% of our canine and feline companions are
overweight.
"Obesity related illnesses can kill, and when they don't, they reduce the quality of life." (DOG
WORLD, October 1998) Almost no part of the body escapes the stress of an overweight
condition - heart, kidneys, liver, pancreas, joints, etc. And, this "disease" is totally
preventable.
It is true that some breeds (the Nordics and Labs, for example) seem to gain weight very easily
but a simple equation exists for all breeds - feed no more than the dog requires to meet needs of
growth and/or activity. There is evidence that in neutered animals the metabolic set point is
lowered but the above premise still holds true - feed no more than the dog needs. Another
aspect of weight gain in spayed/neutered animals is that the operation usually takes place
at about the time that the animal has also slowed way down in its growth rate. Therefore
neutered dogs require less to eat but the same amount is offered!
Over and over again, when I comment to clients that their dog is too heavy (read fat!) I get comments such as - "Really?" "He hardly eats a thing." "My breed is supposed to be
heavy." "But, he is always so hungry - just look at that expression." And when I ask exactly
how much the dog eats the answer is often - "Well, about a half a bowl full." Or, "Just a
few handsful." One of my favorites is "But she won't eat if I don't put (fill in the blank) on
her food.) This is said about a dog that is so fat it clearly doesn't even want to eat and is
being "forced" into doing so by a "loving" owner!
To get in charge of the situation the first thing that is required is to know exactly how much the dog eats at each meal and don’t forget to add in all the little extras that fall her way! To
know precisely the amount requires a measuring cup. No guessing. No free feeding! Decide
just how much the dog has been getting and reduce that amount by up to 15%. While there
are low calorie diet foods available there is reason to believe that the dog will feel more hungry
on those empty calories than on reduced intake - which is what will be required ultimately
anyhow!
Feed on schedule, offer no fatty table scraps, buy the best dog food available if you are feeding kibble - do not buy supermarket brands! Consider feeding “real food”* rather than processed
food. Avoid any and all foods with corn, wheat or soy. Best, actually, to go grain free! Grain
free is NOT free of carbohydrates but it is a step in the right direction. For training treats (You
do train your dog, right?) you can mix some of the kibble with tiny bits of meat, cheese, hot
dogs dried fruit,(NO RAISINS!) etc. and let the flavors blend. Only your dog will tell you if the
mixture is worth working for.
No diet is complete without an exercise program but if you have neglected this part of your buddy's life begin very, very slowly to avoid stress on the heart and joints. Walk only in the
early or late hours to avoid heat. The sidewalk is hot to the touch so consider how that feels to
the dog's pads! And, sun beating down on the dog plus radiating up from the sidewalk (He is a lot closer to it than you are.) can dehydrate an animal very rapidly.
As for those pleading eyes and the drooling. remember that your dog is capable of doing that following a full meal. Hunger may actually be part of the problem if you are feeding dry food
that is mostly grains and very, very little meat. The dog is not satisfied even if she is full! If
you love your dog give her a life free of the strain of packing around extra pounds that tax the
system and destroy the joints.
*To me “real food” means a raw diet but even a well balanced cooked diet is way ahead of what comes in bags. There are a LOT of resources for home prepared food but even giving
your dog some vegetables, fruits, eggs, fresh meat now and then is an improvement over the
reverse.
Did you instantly respond - Of course not! I love my dog! - ? Well, let's look at the facts. Have
you checked your dog's "waistline" lately? Can you actually see the ribs? If your dog has long
hair can you feel the ribs with only the amount of pressure it would take to barely dent the flesh
of an over ripe avocado? If you have trouble with these questions than it could well be that
your dog is fat - even obese.
Some estimates state that in excess of 80% of our canine and feline companions are
overweight.
"Obesity related illnesses can kill, and when they don't, they reduce the quality of life." (DOG
WORLD, October 1998) Almost no part of the body escapes the stress of an overweight
condition - heart, kidneys, liver, pancreas, joints, etc. And, this "disease" is totally
preventable.
It is true that some breeds (the Nordics and Labs, for example) seem to gain weight very easily
but a simple equation exists for all breeds - feed no more than the dog requires to meet needs of
growth and/or activity. There is evidence that in neutered animals the metabolic set point is
lowered but the above premise still holds true - feed no more than the dog needs. Another
aspect of weight gain in spayed/neutered animals is that the operation usually takes place
at about the time that the animal has also slowed way down in its growth rate. Therefore
neutered dogs require less to eat but the same amount is offered!
Over and over again, when I comment to clients that their dog is too heavy (read fat!) I get comments such as - "Really?" "He hardly eats a thing." "My breed is supposed to be
heavy." "But, he is always so hungry - just look at that expression." And when I ask exactly
how much the dog eats the answer is often - "Well, about a half a bowl full." Or, "Just a
few handsful." One of my favorites is "But she won't eat if I don't put (fill in the blank) on
her food.) This is said about a dog that is so fat it clearly doesn't even want to eat and is
being "forced" into doing so by a "loving" owner!
To get in charge of the situation the first thing that is required is to know exactly how much the dog eats at each meal and don’t forget to add in all the little extras that fall her way! To
know precisely the amount requires a measuring cup. No guessing. No free feeding! Decide
just how much the dog has been getting and reduce that amount by up to 15%. While there
are low calorie diet foods available there is reason to believe that the dog will feel more hungry
on those empty calories than on reduced intake - which is what will be required ultimately
anyhow!
Feed on schedule, offer no fatty table scraps, buy the best dog food available if you are feeding kibble - do not buy supermarket brands! Consider feeding “real food”* rather than processed
food. Avoid any and all foods with corn, wheat or soy. Best, actually, to go grain free! Grain
free is NOT free of carbohydrates but it is a step in the right direction. For training treats (You
do train your dog, right?) you can mix some of the kibble with tiny bits of meat, cheese, hot
dogs dried fruit,(NO RAISINS!) etc. and let the flavors blend. Only your dog will tell you if the
mixture is worth working for.
No diet is complete without an exercise program but if you have neglected this part of your buddy's life begin very, very slowly to avoid stress on the heart and joints. Walk only in the
early or late hours to avoid heat. The sidewalk is hot to the touch so consider how that feels to
the dog's pads! And, sun beating down on the dog plus radiating up from the sidewalk (He is a lot closer to it than you are.) can dehydrate an animal very rapidly.
As for those pleading eyes and the drooling. remember that your dog is capable of doing that following a full meal. Hunger may actually be part of the problem if you are feeding dry food
that is mostly grains and very, very little meat. The dog is not satisfied even if she is full! If
you love your dog give her a life free of the strain of packing around extra pounds that tax the
system and destroy the joints.
*To me “real food” means a raw diet but even a well balanced cooked diet is way ahead of what comes in bags. There are a LOT of resources for home prepared food but even giving
your dog some vegetables, fruits, eggs, fresh meat now and then is an improvement over the
reverse.
Canine Obesity
The lead article in the April 2007 issue of the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine is about
obesity in canines. One study done by the National Academy of Sciences show that 25 to 40% of
our companion animals are obese. Not just fat. Obese! And, three quarters of their owners don’t
see their dogs that way at all. Or, do not want to see their dogs as obese? The result, sad to say,
is the same: unhealthy, unhappy and uncomfortable companions who count on their people to
monitor such things as what and how much they can eat.
10% overweight may shorten the dog’s life by 33% and 20% overage makes that figure leap
to 50%. The review states that the “fourth top cause of canine death is obesity-induced
disease” according to the American Veterinary Medical Association. And people refuse to see
the situation or, if they see it, often fail to take action to improve the lives of those animals that
depend on them 100%. What to me is even sadder is when vets do not tell their clients that
their dogs are obese and make it clear just what that is doing to the animal! Dr. Sean Delaney
of the University of California, Davis, says: It is debilitating, and obese animals are really
suffering.”
Routinely I see dogs struggling to walk with their owners. Their breathing is rapid, they are
panting, they are limping from the joint pains – the one thing they are not doing is enjoying the
outing.
The illnesses you impose on your dog when you allow her to gain those extra pounds are
multiple. Arthritis and other orthopedic disorders are often related to the excess wear and
tear imposed on body joints having to deal with the extra weight. While many dogs may get
arthritic conditions as they age just being a “little bit” overweight brings on the conditions sooner,
escalates the deterioration, and causes pain earlier in the dog’s life.
Existing problems are exacerbated and they include luxating patella, canine hip dysplasia,
ruptured or torn ligaments supporting joints, and ruptured spinal disks. Even small reductions in
weight can give the suffering dogs some relief from the pain.
Breathing problems are clearly evident and never more so than with breeds with breathing
problems to begin with – English Bull Dogs, French Bull Dogs, Boxers, Pekinese, Pugs, etc. These
breeds have enough trouble breathing without fighting the extra pounds! Fat dogs often try to
stop regularly while walking in an effort to improve their breathing. They indicate shortness of
breath, they snort, gasp, use a wide footed stance and allow their tongues to hang out of their
mouths all with the hope of increasing air intake. How very, very sad.
Fat contributes to the condition because it constricts the diaphragm, lungs and airways. Nice
thought, eh?
That fat and the fat in the abdomen of course complicates surgery both for the surgeon and
for the anesthesiologist who tries to monitor the anesthesia. Fat cells absorb some forms of
anesthesia and therefore take a longer time to leave the body after surgery. Obese dogs have
a higher rate of death following surgery than dogs with proper body weight. The doctor’s job of
diagnosing problems is totally compromised as she probes and palpates trying to check on organs,
locate a lump, etc. and lab results on blood and urine tests are altered!
And we aren’t finished yet with the downside of obesity. The liver may be affected, diabetes may
result, some studies indicate that obesity contributes to bladder or mammary cancers. Immune
system suppression, incontinence and skin and coat health are affected negatively.
So – be realistic about your dog. Really, really accept responsibility for those extra pounds
and what it is doing to your dog. She doesn’t know that by eating the extra dog food, happily
accepting a slice of pizza, nibbling away off and on all day long, begging for and getting fatty
foods, causes her the pains making so much of her life less comfortable than it could be and
having her die sooner than need be.
Only you can help her to live well and comfortably.
obesity in canines. One study done by the National Academy of Sciences show that 25 to 40% of
our companion animals are obese. Not just fat. Obese! And, three quarters of their owners don’t
see their dogs that way at all. Or, do not want to see their dogs as obese? The result, sad to say,
is the same: unhealthy, unhappy and uncomfortable companions who count on their people to
monitor such things as what and how much they can eat.
10% overweight may shorten the dog’s life by 33% and 20% overage makes that figure leap
to 50%. The review states that the “fourth top cause of canine death is obesity-induced
disease” according to the American Veterinary Medical Association. And people refuse to see
the situation or, if they see it, often fail to take action to improve the lives of those animals that
depend on them 100%. What to me is even sadder is when vets do not tell their clients that
their dogs are obese and make it clear just what that is doing to the animal! Dr. Sean Delaney
of the University of California, Davis, says: It is debilitating, and obese animals are really
suffering.”
Routinely I see dogs struggling to walk with their owners. Their breathing is rapid, they are
panting, they are limping from the joint pains – the one thing they are not doing is enjoying the
outing.
The illnesses you impose on your dog when you allow her to gain those extra pounds are
multiple. Arthritis and other orthopedic disorders are often related to the excess wear and
tear imposed on body joints having to deal with the extra weight. While many dogs may get
arthritic conditions as they age just being a “little bit” overweight brings on the conditions sooner,
escalates the deterioration, and causes pain earlier in the dog’s life.
Existing problems are exacerbated and they include luxating patella, canine hip dysplasia,
ruptured or torn ligaments supporting joints, and ruptured spinal disks. Even small reductions in
weight can give the suffering dogs some relief from the pain.
Breathing problems are clearly evident and never more so than with breeds with breathing
problems to begin with – English Bull Dogs, French Bull Dogs, Boxers, Pekinese, Pugs, etc. These
breeds have enough trouble breathing without fighting the extra pounds! Fat dogs often try to
stop regularly while walking in an effort to improve their breathing. They indicate shortness of
breath, they snort, gasp, use a wide footed stance and allow their tongues to hang out of their
mouths all with the hope of increasing air intake. How very, very sad.
Fat contributes to the condition because it constricts the diaphragm, lungs and airways. Nice
thought, eh?
That fat and the fat in the abdomen of course complicates surgery both for the surgeon and
for the anesthesiologist who tries to monitor the anesthesia. Fat cells absorb some forms of
anesthesia and therefore take a longer time to leave the body after surgery. Obese dogs have
a higher rate of death following surgery than dogs with proper body weight. The doctor’s job of
diagnosing problems is totally compromised as she probes and palpates trying to check on organs,
locate a lump, etc. and lab results on blood and urine tests are altered!
And we aren’t finished yet with the downside of obesity. The liver may be affected, diabetes may
result, some studies indicate that obesity contributes to bladder or mammary cancers. Immune
system suppression, incontinence and skin and coat health are affected negatively.
So – be realistic about your dog. Really, really accept responsibility for those extra pounds
and what it is doing to your dog. She doesn’t know that by eating the extra dog food, happily
accepting a slice of pizza, nibbling away off and on all day long, begging for and getting fatty
foods, causes her the pains making so much of her life less comfortable than it could be and
having her die sooner than need be.
Only you can help her to live well and comfortably.
Saturday, February 2, 2013
Cats are CARNIVORES
Cats are technically “obligate” carnivores and that means that to be healthy they really need to eat meat. If you have ever taken the time to read the labels on those packages of dry cat food you are feeding your cat you’ll easily conclude that meat is not making up the greater percentage of what is in the bag. Typically the food is 1/3 to ½ carbohydrates from grains and starchy vegetables. Not food for carnivores. In fact, dry cat food presents many challenges to a cat’s health.
Commercial cat food has the advantage of being convenient and cheap – that does not make it healthy. Producers of all the major brands of cat food have a responsibility to the stock holders and not a heck of a lot to the cats. In order for cats to even eat the “stuff” in those bags the manufacturers have become geniuses at flavoring those cute little chunks and hunks with sprayed on fats and flavors. Some of the worst foods are still so tasty (not nutritious, you understand) that cats overeat.
Wet food surpasses dry food in that there is far less carbohydrate in the blend so a minimal goal for your cat’s diet is at least 50% wet food. But, be aware that fish flavors and those containing liver or giblets (often labeled at “by-products”) offers a significant risk for thyroid disease. Easy open and “pop top” cans have been implicated as a high risk. It is thought to have something to do with the lining of the cans or the interaction between ingredients and what is in the lining. Avoid pop-tops and especially those with white linings. Fish should be avoided if your cat has a urinary tract disease.
Cats evolved as desert animals and as such their main source of fluids came from the animals they ate. Their prey animals are approximately 65% water and while cats eating dry food are likely to drink “more” water they rarely drink enough to be totally hydrated. High – proper! – water intake keeps the kidneys happy, dilutes the urine and reduces the risk of crystals and stones. These are such common and mostly avoidable health issues – if the cats are fed what they are meant to eat!
The BEST diet for your cat is a homemade/raw diet but beware – Yes – that does require time and understanding of just what and how much to feed your cats. What you need to know is beyond the scope of this article but I refer you to:
Raising Cats Naturally by Michelle Bernard
Natural Cat Care by Celeste Yarnall
What Cats Should Eat by Jean Hofve, DVM
Dr. Hofve has this to say about cats and carbohydrates:
If you want optimal health NEVER feed dry foods!!!
Commercial cat food has the advantage of being convenient and cheap – that does not make it healthy. Producers of all the major brands of cat food have a responsibility to the stock holders and not a heck of a lot to the cats. In order for cats to even eat the “stuff” in those bags the manufacturers have become geniuses at flavoring those cute little chunks and hunks with sprayed on fats and flavors. Some of the worst foods are still so tasty (not nutritious, you understand) that cats overeat.
Wet food surpasses dry food in that there is far less carbohydrate in the blend so a minimal goal for your cat’s diet is at least 50% wet food. But, be aware that fish flavors and those containing liver or giblets (often labeled at “by-products”) offers a significant risk for thyroid disease. Easy open and “pop top” cans have been implicated as a high risk. It is thought to have something to do with the lining of the cans or the interaction between ingredients and what is in the lining. Avoid pop-tops and especially those with white linings. Fish should be avoided if your cat has a urinary tract disease.
Cats evolved as desert animals and as such their main source of fluids came from the animals they ate. Their prey animals are approximately 65% water and while cats eating dry food are likely to drink “more” water they rarely drink enough to be totally hydrated. High – proper! – water intake keeps the kidneys happy, dilutes the urine and reduces the risk of crystals and stones. These are such common and mostly avoidable health issues – if the cats are fed what they are meant to eat!
The BEST diet for your cat is a homemade/raw diet but beware – Yes – that does require time and understanding of just what and how much to feed your cats. What you need to know is beyond the scope of this article but I refer you to:
Raising Cats Naturally by Michelle Bernard
Natural Cat Care by Celeste Yarnall
What Cats Should Eat by Jean Hofve, DVM
Dr. Hofve has this to say about cats and carbohydrates:
Scientific evidence is increasing that carbohydrates are simply not metabolized well by many cats, if not all…overweight cats are at higher risk for many healthy problems.
- joint damage
- diabetes
- decreased immune function
- heart disease
- respiratory disease
- liver disease
- pancreatitis
- digestive disorders
- skin and coat problems
- urinary tract disease
- increased anesthetic risk
- impaired healing ability
- cancer
If you want optimal health NEVER feed dry foods!!!
Read the Label
READ THE LABEL!!! You are in for some surprises!
Most people have learned the benefits and needs of reading the labels on cans and packages of food for humans yet never give it a thought when they purchase food and treats for their pets. Pet food manufacturers take wonderful advantage of that customer behavior. If the word “manufacturer” used in conjunction with food doesn’t appear as a red flag you are already lost!
If you insist on feeding processed food to your pets at least wise up to the really bad stuff in those products. Artificial colors, flavors, and preservatives are linked with causes for cancer. Large doses of propylene glycol (used to keep foods moist and chewy) are currently being linked to central nervous system depression and even kidney changes. The products containing these cheap but damaging ingredients are usually going to also contain ingredients most likely to cause your dogs to itch, suffer from gas, have flaky skin, and more.
And, commercial treats for dogs are often the very worst of the bunch.
Of the top 15 commercial treats in The Whole Dog Journal’s current review I must admit I have never seen a single one available in this area. Almost none of them would even be available in supermarkets in the U.S. but I’ll list them at the end of the article so you can add them to your wish list for the next trip to the store.
While we do not have the best we certainly have examples of the worst! Beggin’ Strips tops the list. The ingredients list starts like this: Original bacon flavor: ground wheat, corn gluten meal, wheat flour, ground yellow corn, water, sugar, glycerin, meat, hydrogenated starch, hydrosolate, soybean meal… To quote WDJ, “Also contains artificial preservatives and colors. This sort of ‘grocery store’ treat is just sweetened glop”. Well – they do call it the way they see it! And whatever “Original bacon flavor” is I haven’t a clue.
I believe I have seen Snausages in our area also. The list of ingredients includes seven instances of artificial preservatives and several artificial colors. And, how about the old standard, Milk Bones? Well, let’s see. Wheat flour, wheat bran, beef and beef bone meal. Basically a recipe composed of what is known as “food fragments” and the bottom line is there is not much that is healthy in those bone shaped biscuits. We would want to see wheat, for example, instead of wheat flour and wheat bran if we wanted to see anything about grains in the food – and we don’t. Maybe the worst thing about Milk Bones is that people will buy the biggest one their dogs can handle meaning it becomes part of the diet rather than “just” a treat.
While treats do not need to meet the high standards of the food people SHOULD be feeding their dogs because the treats are supposedly doled out in small portions those treats should not have harmful ingredients in them. For example, we do not want sweeteners (often shown as corn syrup, sucrose and ammoniated glycyrrhizin) in our dog’s regular diet or treats but a bit of molasses, honey or fruit in a treat is certainly not a bad thing.
Clearly, the best thing to do is to give fresh, real food for treats such as bits of meat, chicken, cheese, fish or even fruit. The tinier the pieces the better, especially when using treats for training purposes. But – if you must have some cutesy shaped doggie goodie here is the list from which to choose:
Buddy Biscuits Original Quinoa Dog Buscuit
Charlee Bear Dog Treats Simon and Huey’s Doggoned Tasty Treats
Henry and Sons Vegetarian Cookies The Hand that Feeds You Healthy Dog Bakery
Liver Biscotti Wet Noses Herbal Dog Treats
Old Mother Hubbard Dog Biscuits Barkin’ Bits
Original Dog Biscuits Dry Roasted Canine Treats
Live-a-Littles Solid Gold Beef Jerky
Pro Treat
When you read an ingredient list it SHOULD read ingredients in decreasing quantities but the pet food companies are very deceptive in their labeling process. Take the following list of ingredients from a can of cat food as an example:
Water, beef, liver, meat by products, corn grits, corn flour, corn gluten meal, chicken fat, vitamins and minerals.
Looks like it has a lot of meat, right? Well - corn grits, corn flour, corn gluten meal, are all basically the same thing – corn. But, because the company can legally label particles of corn separately it turns out that corn is second to water in this particular recipe! Deceptive? You bet!
Cats should never be given any grains and the only reason to put grains in canned food is to same the precious stock holders money. Since the extruders (the machines that make dry food) must have some form of carbohydrates to make the little dry pellets grains or starchy vegetables such as potatoes are a major part of all the dry recipes. Cats should never be fed dry food because of the carbs. Dogs should be treated better than they are and not be given dry foods either but at least they can digest it better (which is not saying much!) because they are not obligate carnivores as are cats.
Names of the cans are helpful because they are regulated but, of course, little is said to the buying public about how to read those labels! If a food is called “Beef Cat Food” it must be at least 95% beef “on a dry matter basis”.** If the label says something like Beef Feast or Beef Entrée you are now down to 25% beef – or whatever the name meat may be. If a label says “Cat food with beef” you are now down to a maximum of 3%
This of course applies to dog food as well and you can use the same thinking process as you read the dry food labels. A label may say Chicken, for example as a first ingredient. Good start, right? Well, maybe not. It means that it is chicken meat – that part is good – but it went into the extruder raw – full of moisture – 75% or more moisture! When it dries out it is greatly reduced in quantity and therefore in percentage. Chicken meal means it is meat but dry when it goes into the machine. Next check how many times you see some version of grains and grain fragments and you get an idea of how bad it really is.
Become aware of what you buy to put in your trusting feline or canine companion's food bowls. Learn to carefully read those labels.
*There is a specific formula to determine “dry matter basis” but space prevents including it here.
Most people have learned the benefits and needs of reading the labels on cans and packages of food for humans yet never give it a thought when they purchase food and treats for their pets. Pet food manufacturers take wonderful advantage of that customer behavior. If the word “manufacturer” used in conjunction with food doesn’t appear as a red flag you are already lost!
If you insist on feeding processed food to your pets at least wise up to the really bad stuff in those products. Artificial colors, flavors, and preservatives are linked with causes for cancer. Large doses of propylene glycol (used to keep foods moist and chewy) are currently being linked to central nervous system depression and even kidney changes. The products containing these cheap but damaging ingredients are usually going to also contain ingredients most likely to cause your dogs to itch, suffer from gas, have flaky skin, and more.
And, commercial treats for dogs are often the very worst of the bunch.
Of the top 15 commercial treats in The Whole Dog Journal’s current review I must admit I have never seen a single one available in this area. Almost none of them would even be available in supermarkets in the U.S. but I’ll list them at the end of the article so you can add them to your wish list for the next trip to the store.
While we do not have the best we certainly have examples of the worst! Beggin’ Strips tops the list. The ingredients list starts like this: Original bacon flavor: ground wheat, corn gluten meal, wheat flour, ground yellow corn, water, sugar, glycerin, meat, hydrogenated starch, hydrosolate, soybean meal… To quote WDJ, “Also contains artificial preservatives and colors. This sort of ‘grocery store’ treat is just sweetened glop”. Well – they do call it the way they see it! And whatever “Original bacon flavor” is I haven’t a clue.
I believe I have seen Snausages in our area also. The list of ingredients includes seven instances of artificial preservatives and several artificial colors. And, how about the old standard, Milk Bones? Well, let’s see. Wheat flour, wheat bran, beef and beef bone meal. Basically a recipe composed of what is known as “food fragments” and the bottom line is there is not much that is healthy in those bone shaped biscuits. We would want to see wheat, for example, instead of wheat flour and wheat bran if we wanted to see anything about grains in the food – and we don’t. Maybe the worst thing about Milk Bones is that people will buy the biggest one their dogs can handle meaning it becomes part of the diet rather than “just” a treat.
While treats do not need to meet the high standards of the food people SHOULD be feeding their dogs because the treats are supposedly doled out in small portions those treats should not have harmful ingredients in them. For example, we do not want sweeteners (often shown as corn syrup, sucrose and ammoniated glycyrrhizin) in our dog’s regular diet or treats but a bit of molasses, honey or fruit in a treat is certainly not a bad thing.
Clearly, the best thing to do is to give fresh, real food for treats such as bits of meat, chicken, cheese, fish or even fruit. The tinier the pieces the better, especially when using treats for training purposes. But – if you must have some cutesy shaped doggie goodie here is the list from which to choose:
Buddy Biscuits Original Quinoa Dog Buscuit
Charlee Bear Dog Treats Simon and Huey’s Doggoned Tasty Treats
Henry and Sons Vegetarian Cookies The Hand that Feeds You Healthy Dog Bakery
Liver Biscotti Wet Noses Herbal Dog Treats
Old Mother Hubbard Dog Biscuits Barkin’ Bits
Original Dog Biscuits Dry Roasted Canine Treats
Live-a-Littles Solid Gold Beef Jerky
Pro Treat
When you read an ingredient list it SHOULD read ingredients in decreasing quantities but the pet food companies are very deceptive in their labeling process. Take the following list of ingredients from a can of cat food as an example:
Water, beef, liver, meat by products, corn grits, corn flour, corn gluten meal, chicken fat, vitamins and minerals.
Looks like it has a lot of meat, right? Well - corn grits, corn flour, corn gluten meal, are all basically the same thing – corn. But, because the company can legally label particles of corn separately it turns out that corn is second to water in this particular recipe! Deceptive? You bet!
Cats should never be given any grains and the only reason to put grains in canned food is to same the precious stock holders money. Since the extruders (the machines that make dry food) must have some form of carbohydrates to make the little dry pellets grains or starchy vegetables such as potatoes are a major part of all the dry recipes. Cats should never be fed dry food because of the carbs. Dogs should be treated better than they are and not be given dry foods either but at least they can digest it better (which is not saying much!) because they are not obligate carnivores as are cats.
Names of the cans are helpful because they are regulated but, of course, little is said to the buying public about how to read those labels! If a food is called “Beef Cat Food” it must be at least 95% beef “on a dry matter basis”.** If the label says something like Beef Feast or Beef Entrée you are now down to 25% beef – or whatever the name meat may be. If a label says “Cat food with beef” you are now down to a maximum of 3%
This of course applies to dog food as well and you can use the same thinking process as you read the dry food labels. A label may say Chicken, for example as a first ingredient. Good start, right? Well, maybe not. It means that it is chicken meat – that part is good – but it went into the extruder raw – full of moisture – 75% or more moisture! When it dries out it is greatly reduced in quantity and therefore in percentage. Chicken meal means it is meat but dry when it goes into the machine. Next check how many times you see some version of grains and grain fragments and you get an idea of how bad it really is.
Become aware of what you buy to put in your trusting feline or canine companion's food bowls. Learn to carefully read those labels.
*There is a specific formula to determine “dry matter basis” but space prevents including it here.
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