Why is it that when I teach someone to train their dog to high five, play bow, spin, back or whatever, the person is smiling, those watching are smiling and the DOG is smiling but when I suggest that now we are going to teach “Down!” the whole scene changes?
Those dog owners who have been taught “the old way” – choke chains, yanking and jerking, etc. – have the really worst time with teaching their dogs manners. I see the shoulders straighten. The voice gets rather low. Often it gets downright threatening! And – we are truly down to business. This is not brain surgery, folks! It is not necessary, and in fact it is contraindicated, to put on the mask of the so-called alpha dog (or bitch, should you prefer that) to be absolutely certain that your dog gets the picture that he is going to learn to “Down!”
Whatever you are teaching a dog can and, in my opinion, should be fun for both of you. In the past the down position was taught with force – no fun in that routine, I can assure you. The idea was that the dog should do it because he was told to do so and lack of compliance on his part indicated an “alpha dog” and that got lots of people really up tight.
To be sure, a down position is often viewed as a position of submission and a very timid dog or one with issues at the other end of the scale could feel trapped. A dog with no escape route is a dog that can be pushed over the edge and inflict a bite. Now – let’s change this picture. Instead of forcing a dog to down – it doesn’t matter if we think we are dealing with “alpha” or any other category you choose to name – let’s work it out so that WE get the down and the dog simply goes along with the idea. The dog gets rewarded. I get the down I seek and we are all happy. Neat!
About that “alpha” thing. New concepts are surfacing all the time and they are oh so interesting. For example: When I began training it was a commonly recommended training procedure to “do an alpha roll” which meant to get a dog on its back, wait for it to submit and then release it. The theory behind this highly recommended procedure was that wolves do that to inferiors in the pack hierarchy and therefore we must do it. The practice of same did get people bitten. So much for that idea. Of course – it was the dog’s fault so – the dog suffered the fall out.
Well – guess what? Ongoing studies now say that a wolf leader gets that roll over behavior by way of an offering by the insubordinate! The leader doesn’t make it happen by way of force! Hey, Boss, just tryin’ to get along in this world. Yup – that’s your bone alright. ¡Buen provecho!
Of course that makes sense in that constant battles in a pack would use valuable energy that could compromise pack survival because there might well be a lack of energy to hunt well. Incidentally, it appears to be very, very clear that alphas do not get into struggles for position – their position is clear. The ones who do the battling are those in the middle ground apparently struggling for a notch up. Don’t be a middleman! Latest info about wolf packs indicate they are really just families! Mom, Dad and the kids - often from two or even three litters. Eventually the now adults move on to create new "packs". Keep in mind - our dogs no longer do that!
Our dogs are so genetically close to wolves that given a fair chance of physical match-ups (think Chihuahua/wolf?) pups would result from the mating. Many behaviors are clearly similar but our dogs are separated in many ways also and we must view both sides of the coin, at least as I see things. For example: We could not produce a litter of wolf pups, choose to keep one for ourselves and turn it into an animal that parallels (in any way!) a pup of a domesticated breed – ANY breed!
As for that teaching down? I recall seeing a woman teaching a tiger to down on cue. She was outside the tiger's training venue and, yup, she got it done. No choke chain, no pressure, just positive reinforcement. After all? We do not really teach dogs (or tigers!) to lie down - that behavior comes ready made. We simply want to put it on cue, right?
With that in mind – remain open about how dogs learn, how best to teach them – and whatever you do teach remember - It is just a trick. And – it can be such fun
Charlotte Peltz
CABC, IAABC, emeritus
707 923 3477
A blog and online reference by Charlotte Peltz, for all creatures great and small!
Showing posts with label Training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Training. Show all posts
Sunday, June 21, 2015
Tuesday, November 12, 2013
10 Easy Steps to Housetraining
10 Easy Steps to Housetraining
Very young puppies have absolutely no control over their bodily functions. It truly amazes me when I get told that someone's puppy is still having problems going where it should and the pup is all of 8 weeks old! Or 10 or 12 weeks for that matter. Puppies who are supposedly trained at that time have well trained owners – the pups themselves are still developing physically and lack long time control.
Since this is a major issue in most households I am delighted to offer 10 Easy Steps to Housetraining written by Sue Mathews, Echo Bouviers, Hillsboro , Oregon and reprinted here with her permission.
• Snap a 6 foot leash to your puppy's collar.
• Put your belt through the loop on the leash.
• Where you goeth, so goeth the puppy.
• Supervise the puppy at all times.
• Roll up a newspaper and keep it with you at all times.
• Take the puppy outside on a leash first thing in the morning, after eating, after playing, after napping, anytime you see the puppy prowling, sniffing, or scratching...and about every hour in between. Encourage her to “Go potty!”
• When the puppy pees or dumps, praise her BIG TIME (until the neighbors come to take you away) and then play ball or some other fun game for a little bit. (The message to the puppy...First I go potty, then I get to PLAY!)
• If the puppy doesn't do anything productive in 15 minutes or so take her inside and crate her for an hour in the same room you're in, then take her outside again. Take her outside sooner if you hear her whining.
• The ONLY time your puppy should be in a crate is at night, if you bring her inside after a non productive potty run, or if you just cannot supervise her personally (i.e. you need to take a shower!)
• If at any time you find a surprise puddle or poop on the floor, get your rolled up newspaper. Hit yourself over the head 3 times and say “Baaaaaaad Owner...I forgot to watch my dog!”
Follow this program and I can guarantee that the puppy will be housetrained. It won't be this week, or probably for several weeks more, and yes, the burden is on you...This works with puppies, or with older dogs...you just have to take the time to help the dog learn good habits.
Very young puppies have absolutely no control over their bodily functions. It truly amazes me when I get told that someone's puppy is still having problems going where it should and the pup is all of 8 weeks old! Or 10 or 12 weeks for that matter. Puppies who are supposedly trained at that time have well trained owners – the pups themselves are still developing physically and lack long time control.
Since this is a major issue in most households I am delighted to offer 10 Easy Steps to Housetraining written by Sue Mathews, Echo Bouviers, Hillsboro , Oregon and reprinted here with her permission.
• Snap a 6 foot leash to your puppy's collar.
• Put your belt through the loop on the leash.
• Where you goeth, so goeth the puppy.
• Supervise the puppy at all times.
• Roll up a newspaper and keep it with you at all times.
• Take the puppy outside on a leash first thing in the morning, after eating, after playing, after napping, anytime you see the puppy prowling, sniffing, or scratching...and about every hour in between. Encourage her to “Go potty!”
• When the puppy pees or dumps, praise her BIG TIME (until the neighbors come to take you away) and then play ball or some other fun game for a little bit. (The message to the puppy...First I go potty, then I get to PLAY!)
• If the puppy doesn't do anything productive in 15 minutes or so take her inside and crate her for an hour in the same room you're in, then take her outside again. Take her outside sooner if you hear her whining.
• The ONLY time your puppy should be in a crate is at night, if you bring her inside after a non productive potty run, or if you just cannot supervise her personally (i.e. you need to take a shower!)
• If at any time you find a surprise puddle or poop on the floor, get your rolled up newspaper. Hit yourself over the head 3 times and say “Baaaaaaad Owner...I forgot to watch my dog!”
Follow this program and I can guarantee that the puppy will be housetrained. It won't be this week, or probably for several weeks more, and yes, the burden is on you...This works with puppies, or with older dogs...you just have to take the time to help the dog learn good habits.
The WORD is out!
The WORD is out!
While the WORD is out it still requires listening to it and reading it. What word? Positive. Actually, there are many words involved and NO! is not one of them. BAD DOG! doesn’t qualify either. Saying: Did you do THAT? can backfire big time so toss that from your selection of words. Using “the” word means that one doesn’t scold pups for defecating on the Oriental rug, destroying the chair leg, and eating things that are not good for it. It means that you start using words like: Good dog! But you have to be on the alert for all the good things every dog does!
Do I hear moans and groans and even louder sounds suggesting such a program is nuts? Oh, to be sure I am hearing those sounds – I hear them regularly. And always from people who are absolutely certain their dog knows exactly what it is supposed to do and refuses to do it. What is usually stated that justifies the person’s scolding and punishment is that the dog has been told over and over and should understand it by now. And, the all time biggee is: He knows he did the wrong thing because he runs off as soon as I come in the room. Hmmm. Well, if the dog did understand and was rewarded for the proper behavior I can guarantee that the dog would be doing what you want. And, if you are interested in changing your mind I can give you a way to prove that your dog is not associating its (“bad”) behavior with what you are observing. Honest.
The people from whom I never hear those words are people who have begun to understand just how animals really do learn. Those animals, incidentally, include humans. Possibly I need to add – people who do not say those words “understand” how animals really do learn in the best possible way.
In order to apply the methods of positive training it is important to learn alternatives to all the training methods you may have been using. We teach the proper behavior rather than punish what is not wanted. Ignoring what is undesirable is probably the most difficult concept for people to grasp. That means that it will be a challenge to stop saying NO! to a pup that is jumping on your guests. It means that you have to stop pushing the dog off of you as you say NO! It means you have to stop hollering, spraying your dog in the face with water, it means not shoving your dog’s face in excrement left on your rug and it most certainly means not using your hands for anything except good stuff. Incidentally – only your dog can tell you what the good stuff things are. Observe your dog!!! If you are big into pats and even thumps on her rump you are most assuredly NOT praising your dog.
As you change your approach – and I most certainly hope you do so – keep in mind just how difficult it is to make those changes. Then, think of your dog. How much more difficult it probably is for her to change behavior: such as to trust you not to punish her. Or to trust that you will use your hands only to touch gently and in places that SHE likes.
So, your assignment is to come up with all the things that you like about your dog and find ways to let her know that. Best ways include “marking” that behavior (saying Yes!, for example or, as I teach, proper use of a “clicker”) so that she knows exactly what is correct, and offering a tasty treat. Once she sees there is a positive way of life, learn how to apply this to any and all things you really want her to do. Those things include using a specific area for elimination, resting in appropriate places compared to your favorite chair, chewing on appropriate bones and toys, greeting guests with “4 on the floor”, and much, much more.
Seeing those Aha! moments are rewards enough for those who really want to learn “the word”.
T
*If there is a sudden behavior change it is always necessary to investigate a health issue. Sudden house soiling for example can result from bladder infections, parasites and even from stress if there have been major changes in the household.
While the WORD is out it still requires listening to it and reading it. What word? Positive. Actually, there are many words involved and NO! is not one of them. BAD DOG! doesn’t qualify either. Saying: Did you do THAT? can backfire big time so toss that from your selection of words. Using “the” word means that one doesn’t scold pups for defecating on the Oriental rug, destroying the chair leg, and eating things that are not good for it. It means that you start using words like: Good dog! But you have to be on the alert for all the good things every dog does!
Do I hear moans and groans and even louder sounds suggesting such a program is nuts? Oh, to be sure I am hearing those sounds – I hear them regularly. And always from people who are absolutely certain their dog knows exactly what it is supposed to do and refuses to do it. What is usually stated that justifies the person’s scolding and punishment is that the dog has been told over and over and should understand it by now. And, the all time biggee is: He knows he did the wrong thing because he runs off as soon as I come in the room. Hmmm. Well, if the dog did understand and was rewarded for the proper behavior I can guarantee that the dog would be doing what you want. And, if you are interested in changing your mind I can give you a way to prove that your dog is not associating its (“bad”) behavior with what you are observing. Honest.
The people from whom I never hear those words are people who have begun to understand just how animals really do learn. Those animals, incidentally, include humans. Possibly I need to add – people who do not say those words “understand” how animals really do learn in the best possible way.
In order to apply the methods of positive training it is important to learn alternatives to all the training methods you may have been using. We teach the proper behavior rather than punish what is not wanted. Ignoring what is undesirable is probably the most difficult concept for people to grasp. That means that it will be a challenge to stop saying NO! to a pup that is jumping on your guests. It means that you have to stop pushing the dog off of you as you say NO! It means you have to stop hollering, spraying your dog in the face with water, it means not shoving your dog’s face in excrement left on your rug and it most certainly means not using your hands for anything except good stuff. Incidentally – only your dog can tell you what the good stuff things are. Observe your dog!!! If you are big into pats and even thumps on her rump you are most assuredly NOT praising your dog.
As you change your approach – and I most certainly hope you do so – keep in mind just how difficult it is to make those changes. Then, think of your dog. How much more difficult it probably is for her to change behavior: such as to trust you not to punish her. Or to trust that you will use your hands only to touch gently and in places that SHE likes.
So, your assignment is to come up with all the things that you like about your dog and find ways to let her know that. Best ways include “marking” that behavior (saying Yes!, for example or, as I teach, proper use of a “clicker”) so that she knows exactly what is correct, and offering a tasty treat. Once she sees there is a positive way of life, learn how to apply this to any and all things you really want her to do. Those things include using a specific area for elimination, resting in appropriate places compared to your favorite chair, chewing on appropriate bones and toys, greeting guests with “4 on the floor”, and much, much more.
Seeing those Aha! moments are rewards enough for those who really want to learn “the word”.
T
*If there is a sudden behavior change it is always necessary to investigate a health issue. Sudden house soiling for example can result from bladder infections, parasites and even from stress if there have been major changes in the household.
Look Ma! NO Hands!
Look Ma! NO Hands!
When I was a youngster and finally managed to ride a bicycle my next goal was to do what the really good bike riders did – ride with no hands. When that day came it was a wonderful experience indeed.
Well, that isn’t the only place where a no-hands technique is wonderful. It applies to dog (and cat!) training as well.* Dog’s can learn to walk at one’s side without using the hands to yank on a leash. Dog’s can learn to sit, lie down, and a myriad of other activities without the use of a leash. Of course, we all realize that we do not have to teach dogs to sit or lie down – they know perfectly well how to perform those behaviors. We want the behaviors to be on cue. Notice I did not say “command”. That is just another example of the changes that take place with positive reinforcement based training. We are not commanding our companion animals anymore than the killer whale trainer is “commanding” his charge to perform a behavior. Fat chance anyone could “command” such a creature!
One of the reasons people do yank on choke chains to get dogs to perform is that they CAN do it. Of course, some people get bitten when a dog decides he has had enough but that is for another article.
Understanding what motivates animals to learn takes some effort. Just like learning to ride that bike. Dogs do what works. If they can drag their person down the street they’ll surely do so. If being in position is rewarded, guess where you’ll find the little rascal? Or that big hunk of a dog, for that matter? Right where you want her.
Instead of the choke chain (or prong collar or electric collar!) punishing the dog for doing the undesirable behavior, dogs are rewarded for being in the right place at the right time. For dogs with a long history of pulling there are alternatives to help change their behavior and get those wonderful moments worth rewarding. Those alternatives include head halters and wonderful new harnesses that are designed to stop the pulling.
Something really important to know and remember is: Prevention is worth a pound of cure. If people start their young pups out correctly the chances are slim they are going to have problems in the future. People usually wait, unfortunately, until the pulling has reached the point where their shoulders are getting weekly chiropractic treatments before seeking help. In all fairness it is important to acknowledge that there are MANY people who still believe one should not begin training until a pup is at least 6 months of age! With punishment based training that is most certainly the case. With positive based training methods puppies of 8 weeks have a ball with the “games” and learn everything they need to know! The only thing one must remember is to not ask something of the little one that it physically cannot do. Training begins the day the pup enters your life. You are always training - best it be a plan or you end up with a lot of behaviors that will require modification.
So while that leash is a safety line that should always be used in situations where the dog may escape, do investigate the No hands! training methods.
*No hands training works successfully with elephants, California sea lions, rhinos, African Wild Dogs, etc., etc., etc.
When I was a youngster and finally managed to ride a bicycle my next goal was to do what the really good bike riders did – ride with no hands. When that day came it was a wonderful experience indeed.
Well, that isn’t the only place where a no-hands technique is wonderful. It applies to dog (and cat!) training as well.* Dog’s can learn to walk at one’s side without using the hands to yank on a leash. Dog’s can learn to sit, lie down, and a myriad of other activities without the use of a leash. Of course, we all realize that we do not have to teach dogs to sit or lie down – they know perfectly well how to perform those behaviors. We want the behaviors to be on cue. Notice I did not say “command”. That is just another example of the changes that take place with positive reinforcement based training. We are not commanding our companion animals anymore than the killer whale trainer is “commanding” his charge to perform a behavior. Fat chance anyone could “command” such a creature!
One of the reasons people do yank on choke chains to get dogs to perform is that they CAN do it. Of course, some people get bitten when a dog decides he has had enough but that is for another article.
Understanding what motivates animals to learn takes some effort. Just like learning to ride that bike. Dogs do what works. If they can drag their person down the street they’ll surely do so. If being in position is rewarded, guess where you’ll find the little rascal? Or that big hunk of a dog, for that matter? Right where you want her.
Instead of the choke chain (or prong collar or electric collar!) punishing the dog for doing the undesirable behavior, dogs are rewarded for being in the right place at the right time. For dogs with a long history of pulling there are alternatives to help change their behavior and get those wonderful moments worth rewarding. Those alternatives include head halters and wonderful new harnesses that are designed to stop the pulling.
Something really important to know and remember is: Prevention is worth a pound of cure. If people start their young pups out correctly the chances are slim they are going to have problems in the future. People usually wait, unfortunately, until the pulling has reached the point where their shoulders are getting weekly chiropractic treatments before seeking help. In all fairness it is important to acknowledge that there are MANY people who still believe one should not begin training until a pup is at least 6 months of age! With punishment based training that is most certainly the case. With positive based training methods puppies of 8 weeks have a ball with the “games” and learn everything they need to know! The only thing one must remember is to not ask something of the little one that it physically cannot do. Training begins the day the pup enters your life. You are always training - best it be a plan or you end up with a lot of behaviors that will require modification.
So while that leash is a safety line that should always be used in situations where the dog may escape, do investigate the No hands! training methods.
*No hands training works successfully with elephants, California sea lions, rhinos, African Wild Dogs, etc., etc., etc.
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
Come? Come! COME!!!
Come? Come! COME!!!!!!!
High on the list of those who seek training for their dogs is that they want their dogs to come when called. Yet, it is amazing how determined people are not to listen to how to make that happen. And always I encounter that ol' standby - He knows what I want him to do and is just being spiteful. That kind of thinking just about closes the door to ever achieving this highly desirable goal.
Maybe the first problem is using a word (any word) and believing that the dog really does understand that word. Words mean nothing to dogs. (How many of you are now saying - Oh, he knows what I want.....?) Words gain significance purely as a sound associated with a form of behavior that is repeated over and over. So, if one says the word Come! as the dog is sniffing the ground, heading away at a run, romping with his favorite buddy or any other activity you can name then - guess what? - the dog associates the word with that action if with anything. Of course, if you use the word "come" during all those activities the dog just learns to ignore the word.
Worst of all is the dog owner who uses "come" to get the dog to appear for something the dog does not want to do or have happen. So - one never uses the word "come" to call a dog for , a bath, nail clipping, something it does not want to do such as stop playing with a friend, etc. Why would he ever choose to come again with associations such as those?*
Come must ALWAYS be used in a pleasant way. No exceptions. (On that same note, the dog's name should also always be used in a positive and pleasant tone of voice. The name should signify a call to attention alerting the dog that something is about to happen.) Teaching puppies to come is easy and fun because they are so bonded and dependent on their owners. And, if the puppy is taught that come means a treat, a ball game, dinner or just some happy, feel-good, pats and scratches that is a pup on his way to good associations. Unfortunately, it will not hold up without challenge during adolescence!
At seven or eight months (it really depends on the dog) there is enough development that the dog will feel the need for some independence and then the fun begins. The owner usually makes the big mistake at that time of getting very cross because the pup always came before and now acts like he doesn't even know his name. So, the adolescent gets pushed away rather than getting the reinforcement needed to get through the stage well.
On the other hand, if the dog has been taught to sit, down and stay (both in the sit and down positions) regular "work-outs" of doggy discipline nudge the canine brain into respect mode and that helps with the problem of coming when called. The dog is not treated as though he just entered Marine boot camp! He is praised and given treats or allowed a toy as a reward for his wonderful cooperation which in turn encourages more of the same. But - he is definitely going to do those exercises! Sometimes it feels as if one is beginning all over again but all that info is in there – just needs a bit of a reminder to get it to resurface.
As for the off leash games - fine so long as you do not continue to call the dog and reinforce that coming is an option. But, better to curtail the off leash activities until the dog is showing attention once again. There are series of exercises to be performed with varying lengths of line so that the dog realizes that control extends to many different distances - dogs learn very quickly that your control doesn't extend beyond about 6 feet so that idea must be changed completely.
Allowing the dog to drag a long line so that he is periodically reeled in, if necessary, is another way to get the idea home that Come! means just that - and it means now. Regardless of whether the dog comes when called or needs some help with the line a treat or other reward is always given. This is supposed to be a pleasant experience, remember?
Do not go for an outing and only call the dog when the outing is to end. It would take a really stupid dog to not catch on that come means the fun is over. Instead, call the dog back regularly for treats and then release him again so that he doesn't know just when the romp has ended.
The last item of business with this cue (as with all others!) is to learn to give just one and make it happen. While I haven't a glimmer of hope that those of you reading this will give up hollering and repeating Sit, SIT, SIT!, or Come, COME! COME!!!! I am honor bound to continue to try teaching the proper way.
While the following phrase did not originate with me I surely wish it had because I love it: "Every handler gets the dog he deserves."
Think about it!
*When one needs to get the dog for things the dog considers unpleasant the trick is to go TO the dog – not use the wonderful Come! word for those occasions.
T
High on the list of those who seek training for their dogs is that they want their dogs to come when called. Yet, it is amazing how determined people are not to listen to how to make that happen. And always I encounter that ol' standby - He knows what I want him to do and is just being spiteful. That kind of thinking just about closes the door to ever achieving this highly desirable goal.
Maybe the first problem is using a word (any word) and believing that the dog really does understand that word. Words mean nothing to dogs. (How many of you are now saying - Oh, he knows what I want.....?) Words gain significance purely as a sound associated with a form of behavior that is repeated over and over. So, if one says the word Come! as the dog is sniffing the ground, heading away at a run, romping with his favorite buddy or any other activity you can name then - guess what? - the dog associates the word with that action if with anything. Of course, if you use the word "come" during all those activities the dog just learns to ignore the word.
Worst of all is the dog owner who uses "come" to get the dog to appear for something the dog does not want to do or have happen. So - one never uses the word "come" to call a dog for , a bath, nail clipping, something it does not want to do such as stop playing with a friend, etc. Why would he ever choose to come again with associations such as those?*
Come must ALWAYS be used in a pleasant way. No exceptions. (On that same note, the dog's name should also always be used in a positive and pleasant tone of voice. The name should signify a call to attention alerting the dog that something is about to happen.) Teaching puppies to come is easy and fun because they are so bonded and dependent on their owners. And, if the puppy is taught that come means a treat, a ball game, dinner or just some happy, feel-good, pats and scratches that is a pup on his way to good associations. Unfortunately, it will not hold up without challenge during adolescence!
At seven or eight months (it really depends on the dog) there is enough development that the dog will feel the need for some independence and then the fun begins. The owner usually makes the big mistake at that time of getting very cross because the pup always came before and now acts like he doesn't even know his name. So, the adolescent gets pushed away rather than getting the reinforcement needed to get through the stage well.
On the other hand, if the dog has been taught to sit, down and stay (both in the sit and down positions) regular "work-outs" of doggy discipline nudge the canine brain into respect mode and that helps with the problem of coming when called. The dog is not treated as though he just entered Marine boot camp! He is praised and given treats or allowed a toy as a reward for his wonderful cooperation which in turn encourages more of the same. But - he is definitely going to do those exercises! Sometimes it feels as if one is beginning all over again but all that info is in there – just needs a bit of a reminder to get it to resurface.
As for the off leash games - fine so long as you do not continue to call the dog and reinforce that coming is an option. But, better to curtail the off leash activities until the dog is showing attention once again. There are series of exercises to be performed with varying lengths of line so that the dog realizes that control extends to many different distances - dogs learn very quickly that your control doesn't extend beyond about 6 feet so that idea must be changed completely.
Allowing the dog to drag a long line so that he is periodically reeled in, if necessary, is another way to get the idea home that Come! means just that - and it means now. Regardless of whether the dog comes when called or needs some help with the line a treat or other reward is always given. This is supposed to be a pleasant experience, remember?
Do not go for an outing and only call the dog when the outing is to end. It would take a really stupid dog to not catch on that come means the fun is over. Instead, call the dog back regularly for treats and then release him again so that he doesn't know just when the romp has ended.
The last item of business with this cue (as with all others!) is to learn to give just one and make it happen. While I haven't a glimmer of hope that those of you reading this will give up hollering and repeating Sit, SIT, SIT!, or Come, COME! COME!!!! I am honor bound to continue to try teaching the proper way.
While the following phrase did not originate with me I surely wish it had because I love it: "Every handler gets the dog he deserves."
Think about it!
*When one needs to get the dog for things the dog considers unpleasant the trick is to go TO the dog – not use the wonderful Come! word for those occasions.
T
Bring 'em Up Right!
Bring 'em Up Right!
Dogs are social animals and that means there is a powerful need to interact with their own kind as well as the human sort that is often their only or primary social situation. We used to refer to them as pack animals but it has been clearly determined that they do not form “real”packs such as wolves would do. This interaction process begins with the litter mates and their mom. Some studies promote handling the pups each day from day one. What is consistently supported is the need to leave the pups with their litter mates and with the mom until a minimum of 8 weeks of age. Many responsible breeders will not release toy breed puppies to their new homes short of 12 weeks of age.
Puppies do their first real interactions with one another between weeks 5 and 7. Before that they lack adequate mental development to learn socializing behaviors - You chew on my ear and I am not going to play with you!. They begin to accept superiors and inferiors in their circle of litter mates and parent and their personalities truly emerge.
During these weeks and those that follow, well raised puppies should be in the house where they learn about the noises generated by humans and their many machines as well as being assured of adequate interaction with people - big people, little people, people with hats, beards, long hair, dark glasses, etc. Puppies sheltered from such actions and noises may end up having lifelong fears of vacuum cleaners, food processors, even the moving action of brooms!
This is also the time for their first vaccinations, parasite treatment and checkup by the vet as well as learning about collars and how to walk on a leash. Responsible breeders do all that and so much more! Pity the poor pup that has been wrenched from the only world he knows, stuffed into a stinky, bouncing machine with the whole outside world flying by! Then his next car ride will probably be to the vet making both the car AND the vet mighty unpopular. All avoidable with some effort on the part of the breeder.
Once the pup has been settled into the new home the education begins immediately. Either the pup is learning what you want him to know or he is learning things that will require some back-peddling on your part. Better the former. For example, do not allow the poor whining sad little pup to sleep with you the first couple of nights and then be upset that he screams and cries, etc., when you decide to put him elsewhere. Don't reward him with pets and coochy-coos when he jumps on you and then become impatient with the dirty paws and sharp toenails that are ruining pants and scarring skin! Do not give the little one free rein of the entire house and then get upset about puddles and poop piles.
While he cannot be allowed out on the streets until totally protected with vaccinations (usually at about 4 months) he should be exposed to other pups, dogs, cats, people and anything else that is part of the world in which he lives. How to do that? Visit a friend's garden and invite friends to yours. Take the pup for short rides in the car - rides that do not end up at the vet's! When he is safe from the killer diseases make an effort to get him into a puppy training class. While such classes do not replace the need to do ongoing training a bit later in his life the time for socializing is when he is a youngster. And, start with training the day he arrives - no punishment, please. He is a baby. Just use food treats to teach him to sit, down, come and stand for grooming. It is fun and oh so easy!
Well raised properly trained and socialized pups rarely need a "home in the country" along about 8 months of age. And? If you have not continued with group training this is THE best time to hop to it again. This is adolescence time! ;-)
Dogs are social animals and that means there is a powerful need to interact with their own kind as well as the human sort that is often their only or primary social situation. We used to refer to them as pack animals but it has been clearly determined that they do not form “real”packs such as wolves would do. This interaction process begins with the litter mates and their mom. Some studies promote handling the pups each day from day one. What is consistently supported is the need to leave the pups with their litter mates and with the mom until a minimum of 8 weeks of age. Many responsible breeders will not release toy breed puppies to their new homes short of 12 weeks of age.
Puppies do their first real interactions with one another between weeks 5 and 7. Before that they lack adequate mental development to learn socializing behaviors - You chew on my ear and I am not going to play with you!. They begin to accept superiors and inferiors in their circle of litter mates and parent and their personalities truly emerge.
During these weeks and those that follow, well raised puppies should be in the house where they learn about the noises generated by humans and their many machines as well as being assured of adequate interaction with people - big people, little people, people with hats, beards, long hair, dark glasses, etc. Puppies sheltered from such actions and noises may end up having lifelong fears of vacuum cleaners, food processors, even the moving action of brooms!
This is also the time for their first vaccinations, parasite treatment and checkup by the vet as well as learning about collars and how to walk on a leash. Responsible breeders do all that and so much more! Pity the poor pup that has been wrenched from the only world he knows, stuffed into a stinky, bouncing machine with the whole outside world flying by! Then his next car ride will probably be to the vet making both the car AND the vet mighty unpopular. All avoidable with some effort on the part of the breeder.
Once the pup has been settled into the new home the education begins immediately. Either the pup is learning what you want him to know or he is learning things that will require some back-peddling on your part. Better the former. For example, do not allow the poor whining sad little pup to sleep with you the first couple of nights and then be upset that he screams and cries, etc., when you decide to put him elsewhere. Don't reward him with pets and coochy-coos when he jumps on you and then become impatient with the dirty paws and sharp toenails that are ruining pants and scarring skin! Do not give the little one free rein of the entire house and then get upset about puddles and poop piles.
While he cannot be allowed out on the streets until totally protected with vaccinations (usually at about 4 months) he should be exposed to other pups, dogs, cats, people and anything else that is part of the world in which he lives. How to do that? Visit a friend's garden and invite friends to yours. Take the pup for short rides in the car - rides that do not end up at the vet's! When he is safe from the killer diseases make an effort to get him into a puppy training class. While such classes do not replace the need to do ongoing training a bit later in his life the time for socializing is when he is a youngster. And, start with training the day he arrives - no punishment, please. He is a baby. Just use food treats to teach him to sit, down, come and stand for grooming. It is fun and oh so easy!
Well raised properly trained and socialized pups rarely need a "home in the country" along about 8 months of age. And? If you have not continued with group training this is THE best time to hop to it again. This is adolescence time! ;-)
Saturday, February 2, 2013
When to Start?
When to Start?
The moment your new pup or adopted dog enters your home you are either training what you want the dog to learn or you are “training” something that needs to be undone down the road.
Unfortunately most people wait – and wait! – until problems are very evident before seeking help. Sad to say the “help” they seek may result in the pup or dog being sent to a shelter or otherwise abandoned because behavior issues have gotten a bit out of control. But, even if that is not the case it is ALWAYS more difficult to correct problems then to prevent them
Impulse acquisition is the first mistake! Before a pet enters your life there is homework to be done. One needs to carefully evaluate one’s lifestyle to be certain that a pet will fit in well. And, then, just what kind of pet will be best? For some a puppy is the only answer – puppies are so cute and so much fun to watch and play with. But, they certainly come with issues: housetraining, chewing, mouthing and more. Puppies acquired from less than reliable sources very, very often have health issues that mean extra care and lots of extra vet bills. Older dogs may fit in beautifully but all too often they come with “baggage” that can include housetraining problems, temperament issues, separation anxiety and more. It may be that a cat is a much better answer but do not think you simply bring home a kitten or adult and you live happily every after. Kittens and cats have very special needs and you best learn what they are.
Before a pet enters the home one needs to decide where she will spend most of her time. Where is the feeding station? What food is needed? Water bowls? Toys? Collars and leashes? Who is the primary care taker? Have you planned to blank out your social calendar to give the much needed adjustment time to the newcomer? Do you have an appointment with the vet to check on health issues and set up a vaccination schedule? These are for starters!
Often people want to give a pup/dog time to “adjust” before asking anything of them but habits – good and not so good – form very quickly. If the pup is not going to be allowed on the bed or furniture when she is an adult then it should not be allowed on the furniture because “she is so frightened, or lonely, or sad, or whatever. Please do not misunderstand what I am saying: If having your pup on the sofa or bed with you is what you enjoy then by all means do so! Just don’t confuse the issues by one day great and the next day – no way.
Eight week old pups have almost identical brain waves to adults so they can learn just about anything they can physically do – but their concentration is limited and they are easily distracted. Also – and this is VERY important: Punishment is NOT part of the scene. You don’t even get to holler at the little one!
It used to be that one did not begin training until the pups were 7 or 8 months of age and many (Too many!) people still believe that to be the case. The reason that “rule” was in effect is that punishment was the method to “train” and pups are quickly ruined when they encounter punishment. Positive based training methods can teach pups as young as 4 WEEKS of age so your eight week old baby is a sponge just waiting to soak up all the good things you can send her way.
It is so much easier to teach a small pup good leash manners than an unruly 8 month old adolescent. It is much easier to prevent destruction of pillows, remote controls, toilet paper rolls and your fingers than it is to “cure” the problems.
So – please plan well ahead of time if a pup (or kitten) is to be your companion. Seek help before you bring home this little creature that will be looking to you for safety, comfort and a long healthy, happy life.
The moment your new pup or adopted dog enters your home you are either training what you want the dog to learn or you are “training” something that needs to be undone down the road.
Unfortunately most people wait – and wait! – until problems are very evident before seeking help. Sad to say the “help” they seek may result in the pup or dog being sent to a shelter or otherwise abandoned because behavior issues have gotten a bit out of control. But, even if that is not the case it is ALWAYS more difficult to correct problems then to prevent them
Impulse acquisition is the first mistake! Before a pet enters your life there is homework to be done. One needs to carefully evaluate one’s lifestyle to be certain that a pet will fit in well. And, then, just what kind of pet will be best? For some a puppy is the only answer – puppies are so cute and so much fun to watch and play with. But, they certainly come with issues: housetraining, chewing, mouthing and more. Puppies acquired from less than reliable sources very, very often have health issues that mean extra care and lots of extra vet bills. Older dogs may fit in beautifully but all too often they come with “baggage” that can include housetraining problems, temperament issues, separation anxiety and more. It may be that a cat is a much better answer but do not think you simply bring home a kitten or adult and you live happily every after. Kittens and cats have very special needs and you best learn what they are.
Before a pet enters the home one needs to decide where she will spend most of her time. Where is the feeding station? What food is needed? Water bowls? Toys? Collars and leashes? Who is the primary care taker? Have you planned to blank out your social calendar to give the much needed adjustment time to the newcomer? Do you have an appointment with the vet to check on health issues and set up a vaccination schedule? These are for starters!
Often people want to give a pup/dog time to “adjust” before asking anything of them but habits – good and not so good – form very quickly. If the pup is not going to be allowed on the bed or furniture when she is an adult then it should not be allowed on the furniture because “she is so frightened, or lonely, or sad, or whatever. Please do not misunderstand what I am saying: If having your pup on the sofa or bed with you is what you enjoy then by all means do so! Just don’t confuse the issues by one day great and the next day – no way.
Eight week old pups have almost identical brain waves to adults so they can learn just about anything they can physically do – but their concentration is limited and they are easily distracted. Also – and this is VERY important: Punishment is NOT part of the scene. You don’t even get to holler at the little one!
It used to be that one did not begin training until the pups were 7 or 8 months of age and many (Too many!) people still believe that to be the case. The reason that “rule” was in effect is that punishment was the method to “train” and pups are quickly ruined when they encounter punishment. Positive based training methods can teach pups as young as 4 WEEKS of age so your eight week old baby is a sponge just waiting to soak up all the good things you can send her way.
It is so much easier to teach a small pup good leash manners than an unruly 8 month old adolescent. It is much easier to prevent destruction of pillows, remote controls, toilet paper rolls and your fingers than it is to “cure” the problems.
So – please plan well ahead of time if a pup (or kitten) is to be your companion. Seek help before you bring home this little creature that will be looking to you for safety, comfort and a long healthy, happy life.
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