Come? Come! COME!!!!!!!
High on the list of those who seek training for their dogs is that they want their dogs to come when called. Yet, it is amazing how determined people are not to listen to how to make that happen. And always I encounter that ol' standby - He knows what I want him to do and is just being spiteful. That kind of thinking just about closes the door to ever achieving this highly desirable goal.
Maybe the first problem is using a word (any word) and believing that the dog really does understand that word. Words mean nothing to dogs. (How many of you are now saying - Oh, he knows what I want.....?) Words gain significance purely as a sound associated with a form of behavior that is repeated over and over. So, if one says the word Come! as the dog is sniffing the ground, heading away at a run, romping with his favorite buddy or any other activity you can name then - guess what? - the dog associates the word with that action if with anything. Of course, if you use the word "come" during all those activities the dog just learns to ignore the word.
Worst of all is the dog owner who uses "come" to get the dog to appear for something the dog does not want to do or have happen. So - one never uses the word "come" to call a dog for , a bath, nail clipping, something it does not want to do such as stop playing with a friend, etc. Why would he ever choose to come again with associations such as those?*
Come must ALWAYS be used in a pleasant way. No exceptions. (On that same note, the dog's name should also always be used in a positive and pleasant tone of voice. The name should signify a call to attention alerting the dog that something is about to happen.) Teaching puppies to come is easy and fun because they are so bonded and dependent on their owners. And, if the puppy is taught that come means a treat, a ball game, dinner or just some happy, feel-good, pats and scratches that is a pup on his way to good associations. Unfortunately, it will not hold up without challenge during adolescence!
At seven or eight months (it really depends on the dog) there is enough development that the dog will feel the need for some independence and then the fun begins. The owner usually makes the big mistake at that time of getting very cross because the pup always came before and now acts like he doesn't even know his name. So, the adolescent gets pushed away rather than getting the reinforcement needed to get through the stage well.
On the other hand, if the dog has been taught to sit, down and stay (both in the sit and down positions) regular "work-outs" of doggy discipline nudge the canine brain into respect mode and that helps with the problem of coming when called. The dog is not treated as though he just entered Marine boot camp! He is praised and given treats or allowed a toy as a reward for his wonderful cooperation which in turn encourages more of the same. But - he is definitely going to do those exercises! Sometimes it feels as if one is beginning all over again but all that info is in there – just needs a bit of a reminder to get it to resurface.
As for the off leash games - fine so long as you do not continue to call the dog and reinforce that coming is an option. But, better to curtail the off leash activities until the dog is showing attention once again. There are series of exercises to be performed with varying lengths of line so that the dog realizes that control extends to many different distances - dogs learn very quickly that your control doesn't extend beyond about 6 feet so that idea must be changed completely.
Allowing the dog to drag a long line so that he is periodically reeled in, if necessary, is another way to get the idea home that Come! means just that - and it means now. Regardless of whether the dog comes when called or needs some help with the line a treat or other reward is always given. This is supposed to be a pleasant experience, remember?
Do not go for an outing and only call the dog when the outing is to end. It would take a really stupid dog to not catch on that come means the fun is over. Instead, call the dog back regularly for treats and then release him again so that he doesn't know just when the romp has ended.
The last item of business with this cue (as with all others!) is to learn to give just one and make it happen. While I haven't a glimmer of hope that those of you reading this will give up hollering and repeating Sit, SIT, SIT!, or Come, COME! COME!!!! I am honor bound to continue to try teaching the proper way.
While the following phrase did not originate with me I surely wish it had because I love it: "Every handler gets the dog he deserves."
Think about it!
*When one needs to get the dog for things the dog considers unpleasant the trick is to go TO the dog – not use the wonderful Come! word for those occasions.
T
A blog and online reference by Charlotte Peltz, for all creatures great and small!
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
Bring 'em Up Right!
Bring 'em Up Right!
Dogs are social animals and that means there is a powerful need to interact with their own kind as well as the human sort that is often their only or primary social situation. We used to refer to them as pack animals but it has been clearly determined that they do not form “real”packs such as wolves would do. This interaction process begins with the litter mates and their mom. Some studies promote handling the pups each day from day one. What is consistently supported is the need to leave the pups with their litter mates and with the mom until a minimum of 8 weeks of age. Many responsible breeders will not release toy breed puppies to their new homes short of 12 weeks of age.
Puppies do their first real interactions with one another between weeks 5 and 7. Before that they lack adequate mental development to learn socializing behaviors - You chew on my ear and I am not going to play with you!. They begin to accept superiors and inferiors in their circle of litter mates and parent and their personalities truly emerge.
During these weeks and those that follow, well raised puppies should be in the house where they learn about the noises generated by humans and their many machines as well as being assured of adequate interaction with people - big people, little people, people with hats, beards, long hair, dark glasses, etc. Puppies sheltered from such actions and noises may end up having lifelong fears of vacuum cleaners, food processors, even the moving action of brooms!
This is also the time for their first vaccinations, parasite treatment and checkup by the vet as well as learning about collars and how to walk on a leash. Responsible breeders do all that and so much more! Pity the poor pup that has been wrenched from the only world he knows, stuffed into a stinky, bouncing machine with the whole outside world flying by! Then his next car ride will probably be to the vet making both the car AND the vet mighty unpopular. All avoidable with some effort on the part of the breeder.
Once the pup has been settled into the new home the education begins immediately. Either the pup is learning what you want him to know or he is learning things that will require some back-peddling on your part. Better the former. For example, do not allow the poor whining sad little pup to sleep with you the first couple of nights and then be upset that he screams and cries, etc., when you decide to put him elsewhere. Don't reward him with pets and coochy-coos when he jumps on you and then become impatient with the dirty paws and sharp toenails that are ruining pants and scarring skin! Do not give the little one free rein of the entire house and then get upset about puddles and poop piles.
While he cannot be allowed out on the streets until totally protected with vaccinations (usually at about 4 months) he should be exposed to other pups, dogs, cats, people and anything else that is part of the world in which he lives. How to do that? Visit a friend's garden and invite friends to yours. Take the pup for short rides in the car - rides that do not end up at the vet's! When he is safe from the killer diseases make an effort to get him into a puppy training class. While such classes do not replace the need to do ongoing training a bit later in his life the time for socializing is when he is a youngster. And, start with training the day he arrives - no punishment, please. He is a baby. Just use food treats to teach him to sit, down, come and stand for grooming. It is fun and oh so easy!
Well raised properly trained and socialized pups rarely need a "home in the country" along about 8 months of age. And? If you have not continued with group training this is THE best time to hop to it again. This is adolescence time! ;-)
Dogs are social animals and that means there is a powerful need to interact with their own kind as well as the human sort that is often their only or primary social situation. We used to refer to them as pack animals but it has been clearly determined that they do not form “real”packs such as wolves would do. This interaction process begins with the litter mates and their mom. Some studies promote handling the pups each day from day one. What is consistently supported is the need to leave the pups with their litter mates and with the mom until a minimum of 8 weeks of age. Many responsible breeders will not release toy breed puppies to their new homes short of 12 weeks of age.
Puppies do their first real interactions with one another between weeks 5 and 7. Before that they lack adequate mental development to learn socializing behaviors - You chew on my ear and I am not going to play with you!. They begin to accept superiors and inferiors in their circle of litter mates and parent and their personalities truly emerge.
During these weeks and those that follow, well raised puppies should be in the house where they learn about the noises generated by humans and their many machines as well as being assured of adequate interaction with people - big people, little people, people with hats, beards, long hair, dark glasses, etc. Puppies sheltered from such actions and noises may end up having lifelong fears of vacuum cleaners, food processors, even the moving action of brooms!
This is also the time for their first vaccinations, parasite treatment and checkup by the vet as well as learning about collars and how to walk on a leash. Responsible breeders do all that and so much more! Pity the poor pup that has been wrenched from the only world he knows, stuffed into a stinky, bouncing machine with the whole outside world flying by! Then his next car ride will probably be to the vet making both the car AND the vet mighty unpopular. All avoidable with some effort on the part of the breeder.
Once the pup has been settled into the new home the education begins immediately. Either the pup is learning what you want him to know or he is learning things that will require some back-peddling on your part. Better the former. For example, do not allow the poor whining sad little pup to sleep with you the first couple of nights and then be upset that he screams and cries, etc., when you decide to put him elsewhere. Don't reward him with pets and coochy-coos when he jumps on you and then become impatient with the dirty paws and sharp toenails that are ruining pants and scarring skin! Do not give the little one free rein of the entire house and then get upset about puddles and poop piles.
While he cannot be allowed out on the streets until totally protected with vaccinations (usually at about 4 months) he should be exposed to other pups, dogs, cats, people and anything else that is part of the world in which he lives. How to do that? Visit a friend's garden and invite friends to yours. Take the pup for short rides in the car - rides that do not end up at the vet's! When he is safe from the killer diseases make an effort to get him into a puppy training class. While such classes do not replace the need to do ongoing training a bit later in his life the time for socializing is when he is a youngster. And, start with training the day he arrives - no punishment, please. He is a baby. Just use food treats to teach him to sit, down, come and stand for grooming. It is fun and oh so easy!
Well raised properly trained and socialized pups rarely need a "home in the country" along about 8 months of age. And? If you have not continued with group training this is THE best time to hop to it again. This is adolescence time! ;-)
Tuesday, May 7, 2013
Canine Obesity, Part Two
Are you killing your dog?
Did you instantly respond - Of course not! I love my dog! - ? Well, let's look at the facts. Have
you checked your dog's "waistline" lately? Can you actually see the ribs? If your dog has long
hair can you feel the ribs with only the amount of pressure it would take to barely dent the flesh
of an over ripe avocado? If you have trouble with these questions than it could well be that
your dog is fat - even obese.
Some estimates state that in excess of 80% of our canine and feline companions are
overweight.
"Obesity related illnesses can kill, and when they don't, they reduce the quality of life." (DOG
WORLD, October 1998) Almost no part of the body escapes the stress of an overweight
condition - heart, kidneys, liver, pancreas, joints, etc. And, this "disease" is totally
preventable.
It is true that some breeds (the Nordics and Labs, for example) seem to gain weight very easily
but a simple equation exists for all breeds - feed no more than the dog requires to meet needs of
growth and/or activity. There is evidence that in neutered animals the metabolic set point is
lowered but the above premise still holds true - feed no more than the dog needs. Another
aspect of weight gain in spayed/neutered animals is that the operation usually takes place
at about the time that the animal has also slowed way down in its growth rate. Therefore
neutered dogs require less to eat but the same amount is offered!
Over and over again, when I comment to clients that their dog is too heavy (read fat!) I get comments such as - "Really?" "He hardly eats a thing." "My breed is supposed to be
heavy." "But, he is always so hungry - just look at that expression." And when I ask exactly
how much the dog eats the answer is often - "Well, about a half a bowl full." Or, "Just a
few handsful." One of my favorites is "But she won't eat if I don't put (fill in the blank) on
her food.) This is said about a dog that is so fat it clearly doesn't even want to eat and is
being "forced" into doing so by a "loving" owner!
To get in charge of the situation the first thing that is required is to know exactly how much the dog eats at each meal and don’t forget to add in all the little extras that fall her way! To
know precisely the amount requires a measuring cup. No guessing. No free feeding! Decide
just how much the dog has been getting and reduce that amount by up to 15%. While there
are low calorie diet foods available there is reason to believe that the dog will feel more hungry
on those empty calories than on reduced intake - which is what will be required ultimately
anyhow!
Feed on schedule, offer no fatty table scraps, buy the best dog food available if you are feeding kibble - do not buy supermarket brands! Consider feeding “real food”* rather than processed
food. Avoid any and all foods with corn, wheat or soy. Best, actually, to go grain free! Grain
free is NOT free of carbohydrates but it is a step in the right direction. For training treats (You
do train your dog, right?) you can mix some of the kibble with tiny bits of meat, cheese, hot
dogs dried fruit,(NO RAISINS!) etc. and let the flavors blend. Only your dog will tell you if the
mixture is worth working for.
No diet is complete without an exercise program but if you have neglected this part of your buddy's life begin very, very slowly to avoid stress on the heart and joints. Walk only in the
early or late hours to avoid heat. The sidewalk is hot to the touch so consider how that feels to
the dog's pads! And, sun beating down on the dog plus radiating up from the sidewalk (He is a lot closer to it than you are.) can dehydrate an animal very rapidly.
As for those pleading eyes and the drooling. remember that your dog is capable of doing that following a full meal. Hunger may actually be part of the problem if you are feeding dry food
that is mostly grains and very, very little meat. The dog is not satisfied even if she is full! If
you love your dog give her a life free of the strain of packing around extra pounds that tax the
system and destroy the joints.
*To me “real food” means a raw diet but even a well balanced cooked diet is way ahead of what comes in bags. There are a LOT of resources for home prepared food but even giving
your dog some vegetables, fruits, eggs, fresh meat now and then is an improvement over the
reverse.
Did you instantly respond - Of course not! I love my dog! - ? Well, let's look at the facts. Have
you checked your dog's "waistline" lately? Can you actually see the ribs? If your dog has long
hair can you feel the ribs with only the amount of pressure it would take to barely dent the flesh
of an over ripe avocado? If you have trouble with these questions than it could well be that
your dog is fat - even obese.
Some estimates state that in excess of 80% of our canine and feline companions are
overweight.
"Obesity related illnesses can kill, and when they don't, they reduce the quality of life." (DOG
WORLD, October 1998) Almost no part of the body escapes the stress of an overweight
condition - heart, kidneys, liver, pancreas, joints, etc. And, this "disease" is totally
preventable.
It is true that some breeds (the Nordics and Labs, for example) seem to gain weight very easily
but a simple equation exists for all breeds - feed no more than the dog requires to meet needs of
growth and/or activity. There is evidence that in neutered animals the metabolic set point is
lowered but the above premise still holds true - feed no more than the dog needs. Another
aspect of weight gain in spayed/neutered animals is that the operation usually takes place
at about the time that the animal has also slowed way down in its growth rate. Therefore
neutered dogs require less to eat but the same amount is offered!
Over and over again, when I comment to clients that their dog is too heavy (read fat!) I get comments such as - "Really?" "He hardly eats a thing." "My breed is supposed to be
heavy." "But, he is always so hungry - just look at that expression." And when I ask exactly
how much the dog eats the answer is often - "Well, about a half a bowl full." Or, "Just a
few handsful." One of my favorites is "But she won't eat if I don't put (fill in the blank) on
her food.) This is said about a dog that is so fat it clearly doesn't even want to eat and is
being "forced" into doing so by a "loving" owner!
To get in charge of the situation the first thing that is required is to know exactly how much the dog eats at each meal and don’t forget to add in all the little extras that fall her way! To
know precisely the amount requires a measuring cup. No guessing. No free feeding! Decide
just how much the dog has been getting and reduce that amount by up to 15%. While there
are low calorie diet foods available there is reason to believe that the dog will feel more hungry
on those empty calories than on reduced intake - which is what will be required ultimately
anyhow!
Feed on schedule, offer no fatty table scraps, buy the best dog food available if you are feeding kibble - do not buy supermarket brands! Consider feeding “real food”* rather than processed
food. Avoid any and all foods with corn, wheat or soy. Best, actually, to go grain free! Grain
free is NOT free of carbohydrates but it is a step in the right direction. For training treats (You
do train your dog, right?) you can mix some of the kibble with tiny bits of meat, cheese, hot
dogs dried fruit,(NO RAISINS!) etc. and let the flavors blend. Only your dog will tell you if the
mixture is worth working for.
No diet is complete without an exercise program but if you have neglected this part of your buddy's life begin very, very slowly to avoid stress on the heart and joints. Walk only in the
early or late hours to avoid heat. The sidewalk is hot to the touch so consider how that feels to
the dog's pads! And, sun beating down on the dog plus radiating up from the sidewalk (He is a lot closer to it than you are.) can dehydrate an animal very rapidly.
As for those pleading eyes and the drooling. remember that your dog is capable of doing that following a full meal. Hunger may actually be part of the problem if you are feeding dry food
that is mostly grains and very, very little meat. The dog is not satisfied even if she is full! If
you love your dog give her a life free of the strain of packing around extra pounds that tax the
system and destroy the joints.
*To me “real food” means a raw diet but even a well balanced cooked diet is way ahead of what comes in bags. There are a LOT of resources for home prepared food but even giving
your dog some vegetables, fruits, eggs, fresh meat now and then is an improvement over the
reverse.
Canine Obesity
The lead article in the April 2007 issue of the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine is about
obesity in canines. One study done by the National Academy of Sciences show that 25 to 40% of
our companion animals are obese. Not just fat. Obese! And, three quarters of their owners don’t
see their dogs that way at all. Or, do not want to see their dogs as obese? The result, sad to say,
is the same: unhealthy, unhappy and uncomfortable companions who count on their people to
monitor such things as what and how much they can eat.
10% overweight may shorten the dog’s life by 33% and 20% overage makes that figure leap
to 50%. The review states that the “fourth top cause of canine death is obesity-induced
disease” according to the American Veterinary Medical Association. And people refuse to see
the situation or, if they see it, often fail to take action to improve the lives of those animals that
depend on them 100%. What to me is even sadder is when vets do not tell their clients that
their dogs are obese and make it clear just what that is doing to the animal! Dr. Sean Delaney
of the University of California, Davis, says: It is debilitating, and obese animals are really
suffering.”
Routinely I see dogs struggling to walk with their owners. Their breathing is rapid, they are
panting, they are limping from the joint pains – the one thing they are not doing is enjoying the
outing.
The illnesses you impose on your dog when you allow her to gain those extra pounds are
multiple. Arthritis and other orthopedic disorders are often related to the excess wear and
tear imposed on body joints having to deal with the extra weight. While many dogs may get
arthritic conditions as they age just being a “little bit” overweight brings on the conditions sooner,
escalates the deterioration, and causes pain earlier in the dog’s life.
Existing problems are exacerbated and they include luxating patella, canine hip dysplasia,
ruptured or torn ligaments supporting joints, and ruptured spinal disks. Even small reductions in
weight can give the suffering dogs some relief from the pain.
Breathing problems are clearly evident and never more so than with breeds with breathing
problems to begin with – English Bull Dogs, French Bull Dogs, Boxers, Pekinese, Pugs, etc. These
breeds have enough trouble breathing without fighting the extra pounds! Fat dogs often try to
stop regularly while walking in an effort to improve their breathing. They indicate shortness of
breath, they snort, gasp, use a wide footed stance and allow their tongues to hang out of their
mouths all with the hope of increasing air intake. How very, very sad.
Fat contributes to the condition because it constricts the diaphragm, lungs and airways. Nice
thought, eh?
That fat and the fat in the abdomen of course complicates surgery both for the surgeon and
for the anesthesiologist who tries to monitor the anesthesia. Fat cells absorb some forms of
anesthesia and therefore take a longer time to leave the body after surgery. Obese dogs have
a higher rate of death following surgery than dogs with proper body weight. The doctor’s job of
diagnosing problems is totally compromised as she probes and palpates trying to check on organs,
locate a lump, etc. and lab results on blood and urine tests are altered!
And we aren’t finished yet with the downside of obesity. The liver may be affected, diabetes may
result, some studies indicate that obesity contributes to bladder or mammary cancers. Immune
system suppression, incontinence and skin and coat health are affected negatively.
So – be realistic about your dog. Really, really accept responsibility for those extra pounds
and what it is doing to your dog. She doesn’t know that by eating the extra dog food, happily
accepting a slice of pizza, nibbling away off and on all day long, begging for and getting fatty
foods, causes her the pains making so much of her life less comfortable than it could be and
having her die sooner than need be.
Only you can help her to live well and comfortably.
obesity in canines. One study done by the National Academy of Sciences show that 25 to 40% of
our companion animals are obese. Not just fat. Obese! And, three quarters of their owners don’t
see their dogs that way at all. Or, do not want to see their dogs as obese? The result, sad to say,
is the same: unhealthy, unhappy and uncomfortable companions who count on their people to
monitor such things as what and how much they can eat.
10% overweight may shorten the dog’s life by 33% and 20% overage makes that figure leap
to 50%. The review states that the “fourth top cause of canine death is obesity-induced
disease” according to the American Veterinary Medical Association. And people refuse to see
the situation or, if they see it, often fail to take action to improve the lives of those animals that
depend on them 100%. What to me is even sadder is when vets do not tell their clients that
their dogs are obese and make it clear just what that is doing to the animal! Dr. Sean Delaney
of the University of California, Davis, says: It is debilitating, and obese animals are really
suffering.”
Routinely I see dogs struggling to walk with their owners. Their breathing is rapid, they are
panting, they are limping from the joint pains – the one thing they are not doing is enjoying the
outing.
The illnesses you impose on your dog when you allow her to gain those extra pounds are
multiple. Arthritis and other orthopedic disorders are often related to the excess wear and
tear imposed on body joints having to deal with the extra weight. While many dogs may get
arthritic conditions as they age just being a “little bit” overweight brings on the conditions sooner,
escalates the deterioration, and causes pain earlier in the dog’s life.
Existing problems are exacerbated and they include luxating patella, canine hip dysplasia,
ruptured or torn ligaments supporting joints, and ruptured spinal disks. Even small reductions in
weight can give the suffering dogs some relief from the pain.
Breathing problems are clearly evident and never more so than with breeds with breathing
problems to begin with – English Bull Dogs, French Bull Dogs, Boxers, Pekinese, Pugs, etc. These
breeds have enough trouble breathing without fighting the extra pounds! Fat dogs often try to
stop regularly while walking in an effort to improve their breathing. They indicate shortness of
breath, they snort, gasp, use a wide footed stance and allow their tongues to hang out of their
mouths all with the hope of increasing air intake. How very, very sad.
Fat contributes to the condition because it constricts the diaphragm, lungs and airways. Nice
thought, eh?
That fat and the fat in the abdomen of course complicates surgery both for the surgeon and
for the anesthesiologist who tries to monitor the anesthesia. Fat cells absorb some forms of
anesthesia and therefore take a longer time to leave the body after surgery. Obese dogs have
a higher rate of death following surgery than dogs with proper body weight. The doctor’s job of
diagnosing problems is totally compromised as she probes and palpates trying to check on organs,
locate a lump, etc. and lab results on blood and urine tests are altered!
And we aren’t finished yet with the downside of obesity. The liver may be affected, diabetes may
result, some studies indicate that obesity contributes to bladder or mammary cancers. Immune
system suppression, incontinence and skin and coat health are affected negatively.
So – be realistic about your dog. Really, really accept responsibility for those extra pounds
and what it is doing to your dog. She doesn’t know that by eating the extra dog food, happily
accepting a slice of pizza, nibbling away off and on all day long, begging for and getting fatty
foods, causes her the pains making so much of her life less comfortable than it could be and
having her die sooner than need be.
Only you can help her to live well and comfortably.
Saturday, February 2, 2013
When to Start?
When to Start?
The moment your new pup or adopted dog enters your home you are either training what you want the dog to learn or you are “training” something that needs to be undone down the road.
Unfortunately most people wait – and wait! – until problems are very evident before seeking help. Sad to say the “help” they seek may result in the pup or dog being sent to a shelter or otherwise abandoned because behavior issues have gotten a bit out of control. But, even if that is not the case it is ALWAYS more difficult to correct problems then to prevent them
Impulse acquisition is the first mistake! Before a pet enters your life there is homework to be done. One needs to carefully evaluate one’s lifestyle to be certain that a pet will fit in well. And, then, just what kind of pet will be best? For some a puppy is the only answer – puppies are so cute and so much fun to watch and play with. But, they certainly come with issues: housetraining, chewing, mouthing and more. Puppies acquired from less than reliable sources very, very often have health issues that mean extra care and lots of extra vet bills. Older dogs may fit in beautifully but all too often they come with “baggage” that can include housetraining problems, temperament issues, separation anxiety and more. It may be that a cat is a much better answer but do not think you simply bring home a kitten or adult and you live happily every after. Kittens and cats have very special needs and you best learn what they are.
Before a pet enters the home one needs to decide where she will spend most of her time. Where is the feeding station? What food is needed? Water bowls? Toys? Collars and leashes? Who is the primary care taker? Have you planned to blank out your social calendar to give the much needed adjustment time to the newcomer? Do you have an appointment with the vet to check on health issues and set up a vaccination schedule? These are for starters!
Often people want to give a pup/dog time to “adjust” before asking anything of them but habits – good and not so good – form very quickly. If the pup is not going to be allowed on the bed or furniture when she is an adult then it should not be allowed on the furniture because “she is so frightened, or lonely, or sad, or whatever. Please do not misunderstand what I am saying: If having your pup on the sofa or bed with you is what you enjoy then by all means do so! Just don’t confuse the issues by one day great and the next day – no way.
Eight week old pups have almost identical brain waves to adults so they can learn just about anything they can physically do – but their concentration is limited and they are easily distracted. Also – and this is VERY important: Punishment is NOT part of the scene. You don’t even get to holler at the little one!
It used to be that one did not begin training until the pups were 7 or 8 months of age and many (Too many!) people still believe that to be the case. The reason that “rule” was in effect is that punishment was the method to “train” and pups are quickly ruined when they encounter punishment. Positive based training methods can teach pups as young as 4 WEEKS of age so your eight week old baby is a sponge just waiting to soak up all the good things you can send her way.
It is so much easier to teach a small pup good leash manners than an unruly 8 month old adolescent. It is much easier to prevent destruction of pillows, remote controls, toilet paper rolls and your fingers than it is to “cure” the problems.
So – please plan well ahead of time if a pup (or kitten) is to be your companion. Seek help before you bring home this little creature that will be looking to you for safety, comfort and a long healthy, happy life.
The moment your new pup or adopted dog enters your home you are either training what you want the dog to learn or you are “training” something that needs to be undone down the road.
Unfortunately most people wait – and wait! – until problems are very evident before seeking help. Sad to say the “help” they seek may result in the pup or dog being sent to a shelter or otherwise abandoned because behavior issues have gotten a bit out of control. But, even if that is not the case it is ALWAYS more difficult to correct problems then to prevent them
Impulse acquisition is the first mistake! Before a pet enters your life there is homework to be done. One needs to carefully evaluate one’s lifestyle to be certain that a pet will fit in well. And, then, just what kind of pet will be best? For some a puppy is the only answer – puppies are so cute and so much fun to watch and play with. But, they certainly come with issues: housetraining, chewing, mouthing and more. Puppies acquired from less than reliable sources very, very often have health issues that mean extra care and lots of extra vet bills. Older dogs may fit in beautifully but all too often they come with “baggage” that can include housetraining problems, temperament issues, separation anxiety and more. It may be that a cat is a much better answer but do not think you simply bring home a kitten or adult and you live happily every after. Kittens and cats have very special needs and you best learn what they are.
Before a pet enters the home one needs to decide where she will spend most of her time. Where is the feeding station? What food is needed? Water bowls? Toys? Collars and leashes? Who is the primary care taker? Have you planned to blank out your social calendar to give the much needed adjustment time to the newcomer? Do you have an appointment with the vet to check on health issues and set up a vaccination schedule? These are for starters!
Often people want to give a pup/dog time to “adjust” before asking anything of them but habits – good and not so good – form very quickly. If the pup is not going to be allowed on the bed or furniture when she is an adult then it should not be allowed on the furniture because “she is so frightened, or lonely, or sad, or whatever. Please do not misunderstand what I am saying: If having your pup on the sofa or bed with you is what you enjoy then by all means do so! Just don’t confuse the issues by one day great and the next day – no way.
Eight week old pups have almost identical brain waves to adults so they can learn just about anything they can physically do – but their concentration is limited and they are easily distracted. Also – and this is VERY important: Punishment is NOT part of the scene. You don’t even get to holler at the little one!
It used to be that one did not begin training until the pups were 7 or 8 months of age and many (Too many!) people still believe that to be the case. The reason that “rule” was in effect is that punishment was the method to “train” and pups are quickly ruined when they encounter punishment. Positive based training methods can teach pups as young as 4 WEEKS of age so your eight week old baby is a sponge just waiting to soak up all the good things you can send her way.
It is so much easier to teach a small pup good leash manners than an unruly 8 month old adolescent. It is much easier to prevent destruction of pillows, remote controls, toilet paper rolls and your fingers than it is to “cure” the problems.
So – please plan well ahead of time if a pup (or kitten) is to be your companion. Seek help before you bring home this little creature that will be looking to you for safety, comfort and a long healthy, happy life.
Cats are CARNIVORES
Cats are technically “obligate” carnivores and that means that to be healthy they really need to eat meat. If you have ever taken the time to read the labels on those packages of dry cat food you are feeding your cat you’ll easily conclude that meat is not making up the greater percentage of what is in the bag. Typically the food is 1/3 to ½ carbohydrates from grains and starchy vegetables. Not food for carnivores. In fact, dry cat food presents many challenges to a cat’s health.
Commercial cat food has the advantage of being convenient and cheap – that does not make it healthy. Producers of all the major brands of cat food have a responsibility to the stock holders and not a heck of a lot to the cats. In order for cats to even eat the “stuff” in those bags the manufacturers have become geniuses at flavoring those cute little chunks and hunks with sprayed on fats and flavors. Some of the worst foods are still so tasty (not nutritious, you understand) that cats overeat.
Wet food surpasses dry food in that there is far less carbohydrate in the blend so a minimal goal for your cat’s diet is at least 50% wet food. But, be aware that fish flavors and those containing liver or giblets (often labeled at “by-products”) offers a significant risk for thyroid disease. Easy open and “pop top” cans have been implicated as a high risk. It is thought to have something to do with the lining of the cans or the interaction between ingredients and what is in the lining. Avoid pop-tops and especially those with white linings. Fish should be avoided if your cat has a urinary tract disease.
Cats evolved as desert animals and as such their main source of fluids came from the animals they ate. Their prey animals are approximately 65% water and while cats eating dry food are likely to drink “more” water they rarely drink enough to be totally hydrated. High – proper! – water intake keeps the kidneys happy, dilutes the urine and reduces the risk of crystals and stones. These are such common and mostly avoidable health issues – if the cats are fed what they are meant to eat!
The BEST diet for your cat is a homemade/raw diet but beware – Yes – that does require time and understanding of just what and how much to feed your cats. What you need to know is beyond the scope of this article but I refer you to:
Raising Cats Naturally by Michelle Bernard
Natural Cat Care by Celeste Yarnall
What Cats Should Eat by Jean Hofve, DVM
Dr. Hofve has this to say about cats and carbohydrates:
If you want optimal health NEVER feed dry foods!!!
Commercial cat food has the advantage of being convenient and cheap – that does not make it healthy. Producers of all the major brands of cat food have a responsibility to the stock holders and not a heck of a lot to the cats. In order for cats to even eat the “stuff” in those bags the manufacturers have become geniuses at flavoring those cute little chunks and hunks with sprayed on fats and flavors. Some of the worst foods are still so tasty (not nutritious, you understand) that cats overeat.
Wet food surpasses dry food in that there is far less carbohydrate in the blend so a minimal goal for your cat’s diet is at least 50% wet food. But, be aware that fish flavors and those containing liver or giblets (often labeled at “by-products”) offers a significant risk for thyroid disease. Easy open and “pop top” cans have been implicated as a high risk. It is thought to have something to do with the lining of the cans or the interaction between ingredients and what is in the lining. Avoid pop-tops and especially those with white linings. Fish should be avoided if your cat has a urinary tract disease.
Cats evolved as desert animals and as such their main source of fluids came from the animals they ate. Their prey animals are approximately 65% water and while cats eating dry food are likely to drink “more” water they rarely drink enough to be totally hydrated. High – proper! – water intake keeps the kidneys happy, dilutes the urine and reduces the risk of crystals and stones. These are such common and mostly avoidable health issues – if the cats are fed what they are meant to eat!
The BEST diet for your cat is a homemade/raw diet but beware – Yes – that does require time and understanding of just what and how much to feed your cats. What you need to know is beyond the scope of this article but I refer you to:
Raising Cats Naturally by Michelle Bernard
Natural Cat Care by Celeste Yarnall
What Cats Should Eat by Jean Hofve, DVM
Dr. Hofve has this to say about cats and carbohydrates:
Scientific evidence is increasing that carbohydrates are simply not metabolized well by many cats, if not all…overweight cats are at higher risk for many healthy problems.
- joint damage
- diabetes
- decreased immune function
- heart disease
- respiratory disease
- liver disease
- pancreatitis
- digestive disorders
- skin and coat problems
- urinary tract disease
- increased anesthetic risk
- impaired healing ability
- cancer
If you want optimal health NEVER feed dry foods!!!
Read the Label
READ THE LABEL!!! You are in for some surprises!
Most people have learned the benefits and needs of reading the labels on cans and packages of food for humans yet never give it a thought when they purchase food and treats for their pets. Pet food manufacturers take wonderful advantage of that customer behavior. If the word “manufacturer” used in conjunction with food doesn’t appear as a red flag you are already lost!
If you insist on feeding processed food to your pets at least wise up to the really bad stuff in those products. Artificial colors, flavors, and preservatives are linked with causes for cancer. Large doses of propylene glycol (used to keep foods moist and chewy) are currently being linked to central nervous system depression and even kidney changes. The products containing these cheap but damaging ingredients are usually going to also contain ingredients most likely to cause your dogs to itch, suffer from gas, have flaky skin, and more.
And, commercial treats for dogs are often the very worst of the bunch.
Of the top 15 commercial treats in The Whole Dog Journal’s current review I must admit I have never seen a single one available in this area. Almost none of them would even be available in supermarkets in the U.S. but I’ll list them at the end of the article so you can add them to your wish list for the next trip to the store.
While we do not have the best we certainly have examples of the worst! Beggin’ Strips tops the list. The ingredients list starts like this: Original bacon flavor: ground wheat, corn gluten meal, wheat flour, ground yellow corn, water, sugar, glycerin, meat, hydrogenated starch, hydrosolate, soybean meal… To quote WDJ, “Also contains artificial preservatives and colors. This sort of ‘grocery store’ treat is just sweetened glop”. Well – they do call it the way they see it! And whatever “Original bacon flavor” is I haven’t a clue.
I believe I have seen Snausages in our area also. The list of ingredients includes seven instances of artificial preservatives and several artificial colors. And, how about the old standard, Milk Bones? Well, let’s see. Wheat flour, wheat bran, beef and beef bone meal. Basically a recipe composed of what is known as “food fragments” and the bottom line is there is not much that is healthy in those bone shaped biscuits. We would want to see wheat, for example, instead of wheat flour and wheat bran if we wanted to see anything about grains in the food – and we don’t. Maybe the worst thing about Milk Bones is that people will buy the biggest one their dogs can handle meaning it becomes part of the diet rather than “just” a treat.
While treats do not need to meet the high standards of the food people SHOULD be feeding their dogs because the treats are supposedly doled out in small portions those treats should not have harmful ingredients in them. For example, we do not want sweeteners (often shown as corn syrup, sucrose and ammoniated glycyrrhizin) in our dog’s regular diet or treats but a bit of molasses, honey or fruit in a treat is certainly not a bad thing.
Clearly, the best thing to do is to give fresh, real food for treats such as bits of meat, chicken, cheese, fish or even fruit. The tinier the pieces the better, especially when using treats for training purposes. But – if you must have some cutesy shaped doggie goodie here is the list from which to choose:
Buddy Biscuits Original Quinoa Dog Buscuit
Charlee Bear Dog Treats Simon and Huey’s Doggoned Tasty Treats
Henry and Sons Vegetarian Cookies The Hand that Feeds You Healthy Dog Bakery
Liver Biscotti Wet Noses Herbal Dog Treats
Old Mother Hubbard Dog Biscuits Barkin’ Bits
Original Dog Biscuits Dry Roasted Canine Treats
Live-a-Littles Solid Gold Beef Jerky
Pro Treat
When you read an ingredient list it SHOULD read ingredients in decreasing quantities but the pet food companies are very deceptive in their labeling process. Take the following list of ingredients from a can of cat food as an example:
Water, beef, liver, meat by products, corn grits, corn flour, corn gluten meal, chicken fat, vitamins and minerals.
Looks like it has a lot of meat, right? Well - corn grits, corn flour, corn gluten meal, are all basically the same thing – corn. But, because the company can legally label particles of corn separately it turns out that corn is second to water in this particular recipe! Deceptive? You bet!
Cats should never be given any grains and the only reason to put grains in canned food is to same the precious stock holders money. Since the extruders (the machines that make dry food) must have some form of carbohydrates to make the little dry pellets grains or starchy vegetables such as potatoes are a major part of all the dry recipes. Cats should never be fed dry food because of the carbs. Dogs should be treated better than they are and not be given dry foods either but at least they can digest it better (which is not saying much!) because they are not obligate carnivores as are cats.
Names of the cans are helpful because they are regulated but, of course, little is said to the buying public about how to read those labels! If a food is called “Beef Cat Food” it must be at least 95% beef “on a dry matter basis”.** If the label says something like Beef Feast or Beef Entrée you are now down to 25% beef – or whatever the name meat may be. If a label says “Cat food with beef” you are now down to a maximum of 3%
This of course applies to dog food as well and you can use the same thinking process as you read the dry food labels. A label may say Chicken, for example as a first ingredient. Good start, right? Well, maybe not. It means that it is chicken meat – that part is good – but it went into the extruder raw – full of moisture – 75% or more moisture! When it dries out it is greatly reduced in quantity and therefore in percentage. Chicken meal means it is meat but dry when it goes into the machine. Next check how many times you see some version of grains and grain fragments and you get an idea of how bad it really is.
Become aware of what you buy to put in your trusting feline or canine companion's food bowls. Learn to carefully read those labels.
*There is a specific formula to determine “dry matter basis” but space prevents including it here.
Most people have learned the benefits and needs of reading the labels on cans and packages of food for humans yet never give it a thought when they purchase food and treats for their pets. Pet food manufacturers take wonderful advantage of that customer behavior. If the word “manufacturer” used in conjunction with food doesn’t appear as a red flag you are already lost!
If you insist on feeding processed food to your pets at least wise up to the really bad stuff in those products. Artificial colors, flavors, and preservatives are linked with causes for cancer. Large doses of propylene glycol (used to keep foods moist and chewy) are currently being linked to central nervous system depression and even kidney changes. The products containing these cheap but damaging ingredients are usually going to also contain ingredients most likely to cause your dogs to itch, suffer from gas, have flaky skin, and more.
And, commercial treats for dogs are often the very worst of the bunch.
Of the top 15 commercial treats in The Whole Dog Journal’s current review I must admit I have never seen a single one available in this area. Almost none of them would even be available in supermarkets in the U.S. but I’ll list them at the end of the article so you can add them to your wish list for the next trip to the store.
While we do not have the best we certainly have examples of the worst! Beggin’ Strips tops the list. The ingredients list starts like this: Original bacon flavor: ground wheat, corn gluten meal, wheat flour, ground yellow corn, water, sugar, glycerin, meat, hydrogenated starch, hydrosolate, soybean meal… To quote WDJ, “Also contains artificial preservatives and colors. This sort of ‘grocery store’ treat is just sweetened glop”. Well – they do call it the way they see it! And whatever “Original bacon flavor” is I haven’t a clue.
I believe I have seen Snausages in our area also. The list of ingredients includes seven instances of artificial preservatives and several artificial colors. And, how about the old standard, Milk Bones? Well, let’s see. Wheat flour, wheat bran, beef and beef bone meal. Basically a recipe composed of what is known as “food fragments” and the bottom line is there is not much that is healthy in those bone shaped biscuits. We would want to see wheat, for example, instead of wheat flour and wheat bran if we wanted to see anything about grains in the food – and we don’t. Maybe the worst thing about Milk Bones is that people will buy the biggest one their dogs can handle meaning it becomes part of the diet rather than “just” a treat.
While treats do not need to meet the high standards of the food people SHOULD be feeding their dogs because the treats are supposedly doled out in small portions those treats should not have harmful ingredients in them. For example, we do not want sweeteners (often shown as corn syrup, sucrose and ammoniated glycyrrhizin) in our dog’s regular diet or treats but a bit of molasses, honey or fruit in a treat is certainly not a bad thing.
Clearly, the best thing to do is to give fresh, real food for treats such as bits of meat, chicken, cheese, fish or even fruit. The tinier the pieces the better, especially when using treats for training purposes. But – if you must have some cutesy shaped doggie goodie here is the list from which to choose:
Buddy Biscuits Original Quinoa Dog Buscuit
Charlee Bear Dog Treats Simon and Huey’s Doggoned Tasty Treats
Henry and Sons Vegetarian Cookies The Hand that Feeds You Healthy Dog Bakery
Liver Biscotti Wet Noses Herbal Dog Treats
Old Mother Hubbard Dog Biscuits Barkin’ Bits
Original Dog Biscuits Dry Roasted Canine Treats
Live-a-Littles Solid Gold Beef Jerky
Pro Treat
When you read an ingredient list it SHOULD read ingredients in decreasing quantities but the pet food companies are very deceptive in their labeling process. Take the following list of ingredients from a can of cat food as an example:
Water, beef, liver, meat by products, corn grits, corn flour, corn gluten meal, chicken fat, vitamins and minerals.
Looks like it has a lot of meat, right? Well - corn grits, corn flour, corn gluten meal, are all basically the same thing – corn. But, because the company can legally label particles of corn separately it turns out that corn is second to water in this particular recipe! Deceptive? You bet!
Cats should never be given any grains and the only reason to put grains in canned food is to same the precious stock holders money. Since the extruders (the machines that make dry food) must have some form of carbohydrates to make the little dry pellets grains or starchy vegetables such as potatoes are a major part of all the dry recipes. Cats should never be fed dry food because of the carbs. Dogs should be treated better than they are and not be given dry foods either but at least they can digest it better (which is not saying much!) because they are not obligate carnivores as are cats.
Names of the cans are helpful because they are regulated but, of course, little is said to the buying public about how to read those labels! If a food is called “Beef Cat Food” it must be at least 95% beef “on a dry matter basis”.** If the label says something like Beef Feast or Beef Entrée you are now down to 25% beef – or whatever the name meat may be. If a label says “Cat food with beef” you are now down to a maximum of 3%
This of course applies to dog food as well and you can use the same thinking process as you read the dry food labels. A label may say Chicken, for example as a first ingredient. Good start, right? Well, maybe not. It means that it is chicken meat – that part is good – but it went into the extruder raw – full of moisture – 75% or more moisture! When it dries out it is greatly reduced in quantity and therefore in percentage. Chicken meal means it is meat but dry when it goes into the machine. Next check how many times you see some version of grains and grain fragments and you get an idea of how bad it really is.
Become aware of what you buy to put in your trusting feline or canine companion's food bowls. Learn to carefully read those labels.
*There is a specific formula to determine “dry matter basis” but space prevents including it here.
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