10 Easy Steps to Housetraining
Very young puppies have absolutely no control over their bodily functions. It truly amazes me when I get told that someone's puppy is still having problems going where it should and the pup is all of 8 weeks old! Or 10 or 12 weeks for that matter. Puppies who are supposedly trained at that time have well trained owners – the pups themselves are still developing physically and lack long time control.
Since this is a major issue in most households I am delighted to offer 10 Easy Steps to Housetraining written by Sue Mathews, Echo Bouviers, Hillsboro , Oregon and reprinted here with her permission.
• Snap a 6 foot leash to your puppy's collar.
• Put your belt through the loop on the leash.
• Where you goeth, so goeth the puppy.
• Supervise the puppy at all times.
• Roll up a newspaper and keep it with you at all times.
• Take the puppy outside on a leash first thing in the morning, after eating, after playing, after napping, anytime you see the puppy prowling, sniffing, or scratching...and about every hour in between. Encourage her to “Go potty!”
• When the puppy pees or dumps, praise her BIG TIME (until the neighbors come to take you away) and then play ball or some other fun game for a little bit. (The message to the puppy...First I go potty, then I get to PLAY!)
• If the puppy doesn't do anything productive in 15 minutes or so take her inside and crate her for an hour in the same room you're in, then take her outside again. Take her outside sooner if you hear her whining.
• The ONLY time your puppy should be in a crate is at night, if you bring her inside after a non productive potty run, or if you just cannot supervise her personally (i.e. you need to take a shower!)
• If at any time you find a surprise puddle or poop on the floor, get your rolled up newspaper. Hit yourself over the head 3 times and say “Baaaaaaad Owner...I forgot to watch my dog!”
Follow this program and I can guarantee that the puppy will be housetrained. It won't be this week, or probably for several weeks more, and yes, the burden is on you...This works with puppies, or with older dogs...you just have to take the time to help the dog learn good habits.
A blog and online reference by Charlotte Peltz, for all creatures great and small!
Tuesday, November 12, 2013
The WORD is out!
The WORD is out!
While the WORD is out it still requires listening to it and reading it. What word? Positive. Actually, there are many words involved and NO! is not one of them. BAD DOG! doesn’t qualify either. Saying: Did you do THAT? can backfire big time so toss that from your selection of words. Using “the” word means that one doesn’t scold pups for defecating on the Oriental rug, destroying the chair leg, and eating things that are not good for it. It means that you start using words like: Good dog! But you have to be on the alert for all the good things every dog does!
Do I hear moans and groans and even louder sounds suggesting such a program is nuts? Oh, to be sure I am hearing those sounds – I hear them regularly. And always from people who are absolutely certain their dog knows exactly what it is supposed to do and refuses to do it. What is usually stated that justifies the person’s scolding and punishment is that the dog has been told over and over and should understand it by now. And, the all time biggee is: He knows he did the wrong thing because he runs off as soon as I come in the room. Hmmm. Well, if the dog did understand and was rewarded for the proper behavior I can guarantee that the dog would be doing what you want. And, if you are interested in changing your mind I can give you a way to prove that your dog is not associating its (“bad”) behavior with what you are observing. Honest.
The people from whom I never hear those words are people who have begun to understand just how animals really do learn. Those animals, incidentally, include humans. Possibly I need to add – people who do not say those words “understand” how animals really do learn in the best possible way.
In order to apply the methods of positive training it is important to learn alternatives to all the training methods you may have been using. We teach the proper behavior rather than punish what is not wanted. Ignoring what is undesirable is probably the most difficult concept for people to grasp. That means that it will be a challenge to stop saying NO! to a pup that is jumping on your guests. It means that you have to stop pushing the dog off of you as you say NO! It means you have to stop hollering, spraying your dog in the face with water, it means not shoving your dog’s face in excrement left on your rug and it most certainly means not using your hands for anything except good stuff. Incidentally – only your dog can tell you what the good stuff things are. Observe your dog!!! If you are big into pats and even thumps on her rump you are most assuredly NOT praising your dog.
As you change your approach – and I most certainly hope you do so – keep in mind just how difficult it is to make those changes. Then, think of your dog. How much more difficult it probably is for her to change behavior: such as to trust you not to punish her. Or to trust that you will use your hands only to touch gently and in places that SHE likes.
So, your assignment is to come up with all the things that you like about your dog and find ways to let her know that. Best ways include “marking” that behavior (saying Yes!, for example or, as I teach, proper use of a “clicker”) so that she knows exactly what is correct, and offering a tasty treat. Once she sees there is a positive way of life, learn how to apply this to any and all things you really want her to do. Those things include using a specific area for elimination, resting in appropriate places compared to your favorite chair, chewing on appropriate bones and toys, greeting guests with “4 on the floor”, and much, much more.
Seeing those Aha! moments are rewards enough for those who really want to learn “the word”.
T
*If there is a sudden behavior change it is always necessary to investigate a health issue. Sudden house soiling for example can result from bladder infections, parasites and even from stress if there have been major changes in the household.
While the WORD is out it still requires listening to it and reading it. What word? Positive. Actually, there are many words involved and NO! is not one of them. BAD DOG! doesn’t qualify either. Saying: Did you do THAT? can backfire big time so toss that from your selection of words. Using “the” word means that one doesn’t scold pups for defecating on the Oriental rug, destroying the chair leg, and eating things that are not good for it. It means that you start using words like: Good dog! But you have to be on the alert for all the good things every dog does!
Do I hear moans and groans and even louder sounds suggesting such a program is nuts? Oh, to be sure I am hearing those sounds – I hear them regularly. And always from people who are absolutely certain their dog knows exactly what it is supposed to do and refuses to do it. What is usually stated that justifies the person’s scolding and punishment is that the dog has been told over and over and should understand it by now. And, the all time biggee is: He knows he did the wrong thing because he runs off as soon as I come in the room. Hmmm. Well, if the dog did understand and was rewarded for the proper behavior I can guarantee that the dog would be doing what you want. And, if you are interested in changing your mind I can give you a way to prove that your dog is not associating its (“bad”) behavior with what you are observing. Honest.
The people from whom I never hear those words are people who have begun to understand just how animals really do learn. Those animals, incidentally, include humans. Possibly I need to add – people who do not say those words “understand” how animals really do learn in the best possible way.
In order to apply the methods of positive training it is important to learn alternatives to all the training methods you may have been using. We teach the proper behavior rather than punish what is not wanted. Ignoring what is undesirable is probably the most difficult concept for people to grasp. That means that it will be a challenge to stop saying NO! to a pup that is jumping on your guests. It means that you have to stop pushing the dog off of you as you say NO! It means you have to stop hollering, spraying your dog in the face with water, it means not shoving your dog’s face in excrement left on your rug and it most certainly means not using your hands for anything except good stuff. Incidentally – only your dog can tell you what the good stuff things are. Observe your dog!!! If you are big into pats and even thumps on her rump you are most assuredly NOT praising your dog.
As you change your approach – and I most certainly hope you do so – keep in mind just how difficult it is to make those changes. Then, think of your dog. How much more difficult it probably is for her to change behavior: such as to trust you not to punish her. Or to trust that you will use your hands only to touch gently and in places that SHE likes.
So, your assignment is to come up with all the things that you like about your dog and find ways to let her know that. Best ways include “marking” that behavior (saying Yes!, for example or, as I teach, proper use of a “clicker”) so that she knows exactly what is correct, and offering a tasty treat. Once she sees there is a positive way of life, learn how to apply this to any and all things you really want her to do. Those things include using a specific area for elimination, resting in appropriate places compared to your favorite chair, chewing on appropriate bones and toys, greeting guests with “4 on the floor”, and much, much more.
Seeing those Aha! moments are rewards enough for those who really want to learn “the word”.
T
*If there is a sudden behavior change it is always necessary to investigate a health issue. Sudden house soiling for example can result from bladder infections, parasites and even from stress if there have been major changes in the household.
Look Ma! NO Hands!
Look Ma! NO Hands!
When I was a youngster and finally managed to ride a bicycle my next goal was to do what the really good bike riders did – ride with no hands. When that day came it was a wonderful experience indeed.
Well, that isn’t the only place where a no-hands technique is wonderful. It applies to dog (and cat!) training as well.* Dog’s can learn to walk at one’s side without using the hands to yank on a leash. Dog’s can learn to sit, lie down, and a myriad of other activities without the use of a leash. Of course, we all realize that we do not have to teach dogs to sit or lie down – they know perfectly well how to perform those behaviors. We want the behaviors to be on cue. Notice I did not say “command”. That is just another example of the changes that take place with positive reinforcement based training. We are not commanding our companion animals anymore than the killer whale trainer is “commanding” his charge to perform a behavior. Fat chance anyone could “command” such a creature!
One of the reasons people do yank on choke chains to get dogs to perform is that they CAN do it. Of course, some people get bitten when a dog decides he has had enough but that is for another article.
Understanding what motivates animals to learn takes some effort. Just like learning to ride that bike. Dogs do what works. If they can drag their person down the street they’ll surely do so. If being in position is rewarded, guess where you’ll find the little rascal? Or that big hunk of a dog, for that matter? Right where you want her.
Instead of the choke chain (or prong collar or electric collar!) punishing the dog for doing the undesirable behavior, dogs are rewarded for being in the right place at the right time. For dogs with a long history of pulling there are alternatives to help change their behavior and get those wonderful moments worth rewarding. Those alternatives include head halters and wonderful new harnesses that are designed to stop the pulling.
Something really important to know and remember is: Prevention is worth a pound of cure. If people start their young pups out correctly the chances are slim they are going to have problems in the future. People usually wait, unfortunately, until the pulling has reached the point where their shoulders are getting weekly chiropractic treatments before seeking help. In all fairness it is important to acknowledge that there are MANY people who still believe one should not begin training until a pup is at least 6 months of age! With punishment based training that is most certainly the case. With positive based training methods puppies of 8 weeks have a ball with the “games” and learn everything they need to know! The only thing one must remember is to not ask something of the little one that it physically cannot do. Training begins the day the pup enters your life. You are always training - best it be a plan or you end up with a lot of behaviors that will require modification.
So while that leash is a safety line that should always be used in situations where the dog may escape, do investigate the No hands! training methods.
*No hands training works successfully with elephants, California sea lions, rhinos, African Wild Dogs, etc., etc., etc.
When I was a youngster and finally managed to ride a bicycle my next goal was to do what the really good bike riders did – ride with no hands. When that day came it was a wonderful experience indeed.
Well, that isn’t the only place where a no-hands technique is wonderful. It applies to dog (and cat!) training as well.* Dog’s can learn to walk at one’s side without using the hands to yank on a leash. Dog’s can learn to sit, lie down, and a myriad of other activities without the use of a leash. Of course, we all realize that we do not have to teach dogs to sit or lie down – they know perfectly well how to perform those behaviors. We want the behaviors to be on cue. Notice I did not say “command”. That is just another example of the changes that take place with positive reinforcement based training. We are not commanding our companion animals anymore than the killer whale trainer is “commanding” his charge to perform a behavior. Fat chance anyone could “command” such a creature!
One of the reasons people do yank on choke chains to get dogs to perform is that they CAN do it. Of course, some people get bitten when a dog decides he has had enough but that is for another article.
Understanding what motivates animals to learn takes some effort. Just like learning to ride that bike. Dogs do what works. If they can drag their person down the street they’ll surely do so. If being in position is rewarded, guess where you’ll find the little rascal? Or that big hunk of a dog, for that matter? Right where you want her.
Instead of the choke chain (or prong collar or electric collar!) punishing the dog for doing the undesirable behavior, dogs are rewarded for being in the right place at the right time. For dogs with a long history of pulling there are alternatives to help change their behavior and get those wonderful moments worth rewarding. Those alternatives include head halters and wonderful new harnesses that are designed to stop the pulling.
Something really important to know and remember is: Prevention is worth a pound of cure. If people start their young pups out correctly the chances are slim they are going to have problems in the future. People usually wait, unfortunately, until the pulling has reached the point where their shoulders are getting weekly chiropractic treatments before seeking help. In all fairness it is important to acknowledge that there are MANY people who still believe one should not begin training until a pup is at least 6 months of age! With punishment based training that is most certainly the case. With positive based training methods puppies of 8 weeks have a ball with the “games” and learn everything they need to know! The only thing one must remember is to not ask something of the little one that it physically cannot do. Training begins the day the pup enters your life. You are always training - best it be a plan or you end up with a lot of behaviors that will require modification.
So while that leash is a safety line that should always be used in situations where the dog may escape, do investigate the No hands! training methods.
*No hands training works successfully with elephants, California sea lions, rhinos, African Wild Dogs, etc., etc., etc.
Sunday, October 27, 2013
Goldens are Good – Pit Bulls are Bad!
Goldens are Good - Pit Bulls are Bad!
In the U.S. and some countries in Europe there is an increasing effort to have various breeds of dogs banned completely. Considering that the number one behavioral problem that owners seek help for or claim as an excuse for dumping the dog at a shelter is aggression this is an issue that definitely requires attention. And, there definitely appears to be an increase in the problem. But – what about the breeds involved?
Dog bite fatality statistics for a 15 year period in the U.S. show that Rottweilers and Pit Bulls were responsible for about half the cases but little is mentioned about the fact that the list included Great Danes, Huskies, Malamutes and Akitas. (All of these breeds of dogs are powerful, and with the exception of Pits, all are big. Clearly any aggressive behavior on their part will cause far greater damage than is likely from the smaller breeds of dogs but size is not the only issue, to be sure. (A Pomeranian was responsible for the death of an infant!)
Blame for what causes good dogs to “go bad” range from lack of concern for breeding practices by the AKC (American Kennel Club) to poor management by owners, lack of socialization and education of the basics by breeders and owners, and back yard breeders, who haven’t a clue how to breed with care and concern for the animals and the people who will come in contact with them – and furthermore don’t give a hoot! Many so called professional or seemingly responsible breeders need to be included in that lot since they produce a lot of pups with problems.
The current popularity of tough dogs adds lots of fuel to the fire but that is not the fault of the dogs! To ban a breed of dog simply sends the creeps out to fire up some other likely breed and so the pattern continues. Dogs that have been bred to fight do present a serious problem when in the wrong hands because they can direct that behavior towards humans and most especially towards children. And, there is an arousal level with Pits, for example, that almost defies description. People whose dogs cause havoc need to pay and pay dearly for it. And, NO - not all Pits can or would hurt anyone or any other creature!
According to Stephen Budiansky in his book The Truth About Dogs a veterinarian did a survey of 2,249 dogs, corrected for the differing popularity of different breeds and topping the list of reported aggressiveness of biting with 14% were – Dachshunds! They were followed by Great Danes, Lhasas, German shepherds, St. Bernards and Malamutes. If one did not adjust for breed popularity one would surely see Goldens in that list since the sheer number of them mean lots of people get bitten by Golden Retrievers.
While I have no doubt that breeding practices and management issues contribute enormously to the behavior problems people encounter with dogs (behaviors not limited to aggression) I believe that our urbanization has eliminated so many of the ways that dogs used to be able to live. I do not nor would I ever advocate turning dogs loose on the streets so they can have “fun” and a social life but the reality is – there were lots fewer problems in those days of old. And – for the most part – the dogs we refer to as “street dogs” are less likely to bite than the pampered, never-leaves-the-house-never-went-to-school dearly loved pet. This is true everywhere – not just here. Dogs, all too often, lead dreadfully boring lives and that is a horrible thing to do to dogs bred for work and there is no work to do! That pent-up energy will out one day and all too often what one hears is – “It happened out of the blue!! He never did X before!!!”
Another major problem is what I call the “Lassie Syndrome”. People seem to believe that dogs should simply come to us housetrained, desiring to please our every wish, have total bite inhibition, love kids, know what is expected of them, and just “do it” with no efforts on our part. Well – ya know, folks? There is no Lassie!
Dogs bite. That is one of their major ways to communicate. We can channel their natural behaviors towards suitable directions and acceptable items but that does take time, energy, understanding how and when or we can simply hand them over to a shelter and go get another dog and make the same mistakes all over again. The choice is ours and sad to say those dogs paying the price with their lives don’t have that same advantage.
B
In the U.S. and some countries in Europe there is an increasing effort to have various breeds of dogs banned completely. Considering that the number one behavioral problem that owners seek help for or claim as an excuse for dumping the dog at a shelter is aggression this is an issue that definitely requires attention. And, there definitely appears to be an increase in the problem. But – what about the breeds involved?
Dog bite fatality statistics for a 15 year period in the U.S. show that Rottweilers and Pit Bulls were responsible for about half the cases but little is mentioned about the fact that the list included Great Danes, Huskies, Malamutes and Akitas. (All of these breeds of dogs are powerful, and with the exception of Pits, all are big. Clearly any aggressive behavior on their part will cause far greater damage than is likely from the smaller breeds of dogs but size is not the only issue, to be sure. (A Pomeranian was responsible for the death of an infant!)
Blame for what causes good dogs to “go bad” range from lack of concern for breeding practices by the AKC (American Kennel Club) to poor management by owners, lack of socialization and education of the basics by breeders and owners, and back yard breeders, who haven’t a clue how to breed with care and concern for the animals and the people who will come in contact with them – and furthermore don’t give a hoot! Many so called professional or seemingly responsible breeders need to be included in that lot since they produce a lot of pups with problems.
The current popularity of tough dogs adds lots of fuel to the fire but that is not the fault of the dogs! To ban a breed of dog simply sends the creeps out to fire up some other likely breed and so the pattern continues. Dogs that have been bred to fight do present a serious problem when in the wrong hands because they can direct that behavior towards humans and most especially towards children. And, there is an arousal level with Pits, for example, that almost defies description. People whose dogs cause havoc need to pay and pay dearly for it. And, NO - not all Pits can or would hurt anyone or any other creature!
According to Stephen Budiansky in his book The Truth About Dogs a veterinarian did a survey of 2,249 dogs, corrected for the differing popularity of different breeds and topping the list of reported aggressiveness of biting with 14% were – Dachshunds! They were followed by Great Danes, Lhasas, German shepherds, St. Bernards and Malamutes. If one did not adjust for breed popularity one would surely see Goldens in that list since the sheer number of them mean lots of people get bitten by Golden Retrievers.
While I have no doubt that breeding practices and management issues contribute enormously to the behavior problems people encounter with dogs (behaviors not limited to aggression) I believe that our urbanization has eliminated so many of the ways that dogs used to be able to live. I do not nor would I ever advocate turning dogs loose on the streets so they can have “fun” and a social life but the reality is – there were lots fewer problems in those days of old. And – for the most part – the dogs we refer to as “street dogs” are less likely to bite than the pampered, never-leaves-the-house-never-went-to-school dearly loved pet. This is true everywhere – not just here. Dogs, all too often, lead dreadfully boring lives and that is a horrible thing to do to dogs bred for work and there is no work to do! That pent-up energy will out one day and all too often what one hears is – “It happened out of the blue!! He never did X before!!!”
Another major problem is what I call the “Lassie Syndrome”. People seem to believe that dogs should simply come to us housetrained, desiring to please our every wish, have total bite inhibition, love kids, know what is expected of them, and just “do it” with no efforts on our part. Well – ya know, folks? There is no Lassie!
Dogs bite. That is one of their major ways to communicate. We can channel their natural behaviors towards suitable directions and acceptable items but that does take time, energy, understanding how and when or we can simply hand them over to a shelter and go get another dog and make the same mistakes all over again. The choice is ours and sad to say those dogs paying the price with their lives don’t have that same advantage.
B
Isn't She Cute?
Isn't She Cute?
Several times during our short conversation Skippy came up to her owner, nudged her arm and awaited the oncoming pats and scratches. Her owner very absentmindedly, it seemed to me, reached over to Skippy, never missing a beat in the conversation, and performed as commanded. With great restraint, unusual for me, I might add, I said nothing.
When the owner said, Isn’t she cute?, more a statement than a question, I bit my lip.
A couple of weeks later I got a phone call from Skippy’s mom and all of a sudden the “cute” behavior had caused a very expensive problem and what could I do about it. It seems that while sitting and reviewing something on the monitor, cup of hot coffee in hand, Skippy came for her ration of pats and scratches. Nudge, over goes the coffee, and now say goodbye to what had been a perfectly good keyboard.
When I suggested that some basic training was in order I was advised that she didn’t give a ?&%$# if Skippy ever sat, stayed, or any other ?&%$# thing. All she wanted was to put a stop to the nudging. I told her I was sorry but that I couldn’t help her, in that case. It is not my job to punish a dog for doing something her person has so carefully nurtured! Skippy needed some basics in her behavior program.
So, what is the problem? Respect! Respect on the part of Skippy’s owner for Skippy and the other way around. It is not appropriate for a dog to control everyone’s life. It is not appropriate for Skippy to just be around so her owner can give strokes when it is convenient. Skippy needs manners, “work” to do in the form of various obedience exercises such as sitting before being pet and waiting rather than demanding that petting! Those basic exercises create a life for the dog. Teaching them (to the owner) creates awareness in the mind of the owner just how dogs think and what their (the dogs’!) needs are and that becomes the beginning of a real connection between them.
There is another behavior that people think is so “cute” and that is when their dog is sitting or standing next to them and rests a foot on top of the person’s shoe. That, my good readers, is a bit of control and management of the scene. Leaning on the person is very similar and both actions should be discouraged so that the dog must watch the person for what may take place rather than feel the person and be able to observe any interesting things going on around the scene.
Teaching a dog good manners so it learns to earn the important things in life has a lot of benefits - including a happier dog! Being unruly, even demanding can extend beyond just bothersome - it can result in that damaged keyboard, a ruined skirt from the coffee spilling on it, maybe even a burn from very hot coffee. And, sad to say, all too often the dog may pay with her life!
If you have a dog you have the responsibility to understand how to treat them appropriately. Become partners! Then everyone comes out a winner.
And, no! I am not advocating that you not continue to pet and stroke your dog! That is important for both of you.
B
Several times during our short conversation Skippy came up to her owner, nudged her arm and awaited the oncoming pats and scratches. Her owner very absentmindedly, it seemed to me, reached over to Skippy, never missing a beat in the conversation, and performed as commanded. With great restraint, unusual for me, I might add, I said nothing.
When the owner said, Isn’t she cute?, more a statement than a question, I bit my lip.
A couple of weeks later I got a phone call from Skippy’s mom and all of a sudden the “cute” behavior had caused a very expensive problem and what could I do about it. It seems that while sitting and reviewing something on the monitor, cup of hot coffee in hand, Skippy came for her ration of pats and scratches. Nudge, over goes the coffee, and now say goodbye to what had been a perfectly good keyboard.
When I suggested that some basic training was in order I was advised that she didn’t give a ?&%$# if Skippy ever sat, stayed, or any other ?&%$# thing. All she wanted was to put a stop to the nudging. I told her I was sorry but that I couldn’t help her, in that case. It is not my job to punish a dog for doing something her person has so carefully nurtured! Skippy needed some basics in her behavior program.
So, what is the problem? Respect! Respect on the part of Skippy’s owner for Skippy and the other way around. It is not appropriate for a dog to control everyone’s life. It is not appropriate for Skippy to just be around so her owner can give strokes when it is convenient. Skippy needs manners, “work” to do in the form of various obedience exercises such as sitting before being pet and waiting rather than demanding that petting! Those basic exercises create a life for the dog. Teaching them (to the owner) creates awareness in the mind of the owner just how dogs think and what their (the dogs’!) needs are and that becomes the beginning of a real connection between them.
There is another behavior that people think is so “cute” and that is when their dog is sitting or standing next to them and rests a foot on top of the person’s shoe. That, my good readers, is a bit of control and management of the scene. Leaning on the person is very similar and both actions should be discouraged so that the dog must watch the person for what may take place rather than feel the person and be able to observe any interesting things going on around the scene.
Teaching a dog good manners so it learns to earn the important things in life has a lot of benefits - including a happier dog! Being unruly, even demanding can extend beyond just bothersome - it can result in that damaged keyboard, a ruined skirt from the coffee spilling on it, maybe even a burn from very hot coffee. And, sad to say, all too often the dog may pay with her life!
If you have a dog you have the responsibility to understand how to treat them appropriately. Become partners! Then everyone comes out a winner.
And, no! I am not advocating that you not continue to pet and stroke your dog! That is important for both of you.
B
Alpha is Out!
Alpha is out!
Many of us grew up with the idea that it was mandatory to be “alpha” to our dogs and two moves were particularly important in order to maintain that role: scruff shakes and alpha rolls. In the process many a gentle canine friend was frightened beyond words and a whole lot of people got bitten by dogs that felt things had gotten out of control and the dog needed to fight for its life.
A scruff shake, for those who never learned such heinous training procedures, means to grab a dog on either side of the neck, lift her until her front feet are barely (if at all!) touching the ground, lean over her and read her the riot act. Alpha rolls meant to slam a dog down on his side or back and pin him there. People were misguided in believing that these procedures mimicked how canines maintain order in the pack. Wrong! It doesn’t happen that way at all.
Dogs often demonstrate submissiveness and maybe even respect to a higher ranking individual by putting themselves on their side, tails often tucked between the legs and they may even urinate. A higher ranking dog will often stand over the dog with an attitude of: You got THAT right! And that ends it.
The kinds of things that people believed (And most trainers still teach this way!) justified such abusive treatments included not obeying a command, resource guarding, food stealing, etc. Complete obedience and total compliance was the way to go.
New, humane methods include changing how we think about the dogs. Rather than saying we want them to obey a command we give cues for the behaviors we have carefully taught and reward their successes. We are leaders – not dictators. Dogs are truly social creatures but not true pack animals - they do not work together to get food nor do they work together to care for young. So if we are to lead that puts some responsibility on us to understand how the dogs see the world. For example, a dog that has only been taught to sit, lie down, and stay on cue in the house is not likely to understand the cues for those exercises outside of the house! True.
So, if you have only worked in the house or garden, step out onto the street and say: Rover, sit!, and Rover does not do it that is not insubordination. We learn a bit differently than dogs do. We could pull that off because we generalize more easily. Dogs have to be taught to sit under different conditions and the more distracting the situation the longer it takes to get the behavior on cue. The bright side is that the more you teach and the more varied the conditions the better the dog gets at generalizing. Never will be at our level but it can get pretty good.
Punishing a dog for something it has not learned how to do is cruel, to say the least.
Be a teacher. Be a leader. Learn how to understand your dog and forget the alpha nonsense.
B
Many of us grew up with the idea that it was mandatory to be “alpha” to our dogs and two moves were particularly important in order to maintain that role: scruff shakes and alpha rolls. In the process many a gentle canine friend was frightened beyond words and a whole lot of people got bitten by dogs that felt things had gotten out of control and the dog needed to fight for its life.
A scruff shake, for those who never learned such heinous training procedures, means to grab a dog on either side of the neck, lift her until her front feet are barely (if at all!) touching the ground, lean over her and read her the riot act. Alpha rolls meant to slam a dog down on his side or back and pin him there. People were misguided in believing that these procedures mimicked how canines maintain order in the pack. Wrong! It doesn’t happen that way at all.
Dogs often demonstrate submissiveness and maybe even respect to a higher ranking individual by putting themselves on their side, tails often tucked between the legs and they may even urinate. A higher ranking dog will often stand over the dog with an attitude of: You got THAT right! And that ends it.
The kinds of things that people believed (And most trainers still teach this way!) justified such abusive treatments included not obeying a command, resource guarding, food stealing, etc. Complete obedience and total compliance was the way to go.
New, humane methods include changing how we think about the dogs. Rather than saying we want them to obey a command we give cues for the behaviors we have carefully taught and reward their successes. We are leaders – not dictators. Dogs are truly social creatures but not true pack animals - they do not work together to get food nor do they work together to care for young. So if we are to lead that puts some responsibility on us to understand how the dogs see the world. For example, a dog that has only been taught to sit, lie down, and stay on cue in the house is not likely to understand the cues for those exercises outside of the house! True.
So, if you have only worked in the house or garden, step out onto the street and say: Rover, sit!, and Rover does not do it that is not insubordination. We learn a bit differently than dogs do. We could pull that off because we generalize more easily. Dogs have to be taught to sit under different conditions and the more distracting the situation the longer it takes to get the behavior on cue. The bright side is that the more you teach and the more varied the conditions the better the dog gets at generalizing. Never will be at our level but it can get pretty good.
Punishing a dog for something it has not learned how to do is cruel, to say the least.
Be a teacher. Be a leader. Learn how to understand your dog and forget the alpha nonsense.
B
Bite Carefully, Please!
Bite Carefully, Please!
When puppies play together they do a lot of biting. They may lie next to one another, mouths in constant action with each other. Usually there is a lot of growling and lip curling and they appear to be ready to kill one another. What is going on?
Those puppies are learning bite inhibition and it is a very, very important lesson indeed. Those needle sharp puppy teeth can quickly cause pain but most of the time the game goes on for minutes at a time. Clearly the pups are maintaining control of those teeth. If the bite control machinery fails there will be a sharp yelp and that could well end the game. The pup without control finds herself playing alone and that isn’t nearly as much fun.
When pups are given a proper start in life they get to practice that same behavior with mom or another adult dog as well as litter mates. Mom or the tolerant adult allows the pup the chance to play so long as there is self control on the part of Mouthy Mable. Biting too hard, not responding to a well spoken Yipe!, ends the game.
We need to learn from that behavior. There are people that severely punish a pup for practicing on human flesh but, unfortunately, that system can backfire big time. Most of the time, in fact, the pup leaps right back into the game biting harder than before! No, I am not advocating allowing M. M. to scrape, puncture and leave you with blood running down your arm! What I am suggesting is to teach your pup proper use of those needle sharp puppy teeth.
Allow – no, encourage! – puppy mouthing of your hand. Just your hand! At the moment that the biting gets too rough let out a really high pitched yelp. A puppy that has had the opportunity (and ALL puppies should have that opportunity!) to learn from litter mates and mom will back off for a moment and may well lick your hand or otherwise indicate a Oops! Sorry. I didn’t really mean to be so rough. If Jaws does not respond appropriately give him one more chance, really yelp for all you are worth and leave the pup alone for a couple of minutes. Return and repeat the performance until the light goes on: Hmmm. I bite, hear that yelp and I find myself alone.* That’s no fun. Enter bite control!
It is not only inadvisable to punish a pup for puppy mouthing but it may end up in a serious bite later because the warning signs have been punished. Many people will state that a dog bit “with no warnings” – usually because the growl or other advisory signal was punished – not the bite that followed!
Puppies that learn bite inhibition are most unlikely to bite hard should they be pushed too much in some future situation as an adult. And, all dogs can be pushed over threshold!
When this program is clearly working it is time to introduce a Leave it! cue.** After all, there are definitely times when you do not feel like playing the game and a turn-off switch is needed. Teach Leave it! with food tidbits and toys before using it with the biting game. The reason is that M.M. needs to learn the lesson when she isn’t aroused and focused on playing. Once she understands the game present the Leave it! once in awhile when the pup starts the play biting game and then once every 3 or 4 times that play biting is started by the pup. Gradually build up to being able to say Leave it! any time that you do not want to play the game. But, do not totally discontinue the play biting game because for a dog to maintain a soft mouth occasional practice is imperative. Pups over 6 months of age should never make contact with human flesh if properly socialized and trained.
One important tip: Difficult as it is do not grab your hand away from the pup when the biting gets too rough because the pup is certain to reflexively grab for your hand and you are most likely to suffer scrapes from those puppy teeth.
*Occasionally a pup will actually get more excited about the yelp. In that case simply say something like Oops! and leave the scene.
**Short course to teach Leave it! Place a piece of food in one hand and a tastier piece of food in the opposite hand. Let the pup see/smell the first piece of food, close the hand as you say Leave it! You will get sniffing, licking, nibbling, pawing, etc., as the pup makes an effort to get to that tidbit. The INSTANT the pup looks away say YES! and give the food from the other hand. Repeat a dozen times or whatever it takes for the pup to instantly look away from the hand when you say Leave it! Then switch hands.
When puppies play together they do a lot of biting. They may lie next to one another, mouths in constant action with each other. Usually there is a lot of growling and lip curling and they appear to be ready to kill one another. What is going on?
Those puppies are learning bite inhibition and it is a very, very important lesson indeed. Those needle sharp puppy teeth can quickly cause pain but most of the time the game goes on for minutes at a time. Clearly the pups are maintaining control of those teeth. If the bite control machinery fails there will be a sharp yelp and that could well end the game. The pup without control finds herself playing alone and that isn’t nearly as much fun.
When pups are given a proper start in life they get to practice that same behavior with mom or another adult dog as well as litter mates. Mom or the tolerant adult allows the pup the chance to play so long as there is self control on the part of Mouthy Mable. Biting too hard, not responding to a well spoken Yipe!, ends the game.
We need to learn from that behavior. There are people that severely punish a pup for practicing on human flesh but, unfortunately, that system can backfire big time. Most of the time, in fact, the pup leaps right back into the game biting harder than before! No, I am not advocating allowing M. M. to scrape, puncture and leave you with blood running down your arm! What I am suggesting is to teach your pup proper use of those needle sharp puppy teeth.
Allow – no, encourage! – puppy mouthing of your hand. Just your hand! At the moment that the biting gets too rough let out a really high pitched yelp. A puppy that has had the opportunity (and ALL puppies should have that opportunity!) to learn from litter mates and mom will back off for a moment and may well lick your hand or otherwise indicate a Oops! Sorry. I didn’t really mean to be so rough. If Jaws does not respond appropriately give him one more chance, really yelp for all you are worth and leave the pup alone for a couple of minutes. Return and repeat the performance until the light goes on: Hmmm. I bite, hear that yelp and I find myself alone.* That’s no fun. Enter bite control!
It is not only inadvisable to punish a pup for puppy mouthing but it may end up in a serious bite later because the warning signs have been punished. Many people will state that a dog bit “with no warnings” – usually because the growl or other advisory signal was punished – not the bite that followed!
Puppies that learn bite inhibition are most unlikely to bite hard should they be pushed too much in some future situation as an adult. And, all dogs can be pushed over threshold!
When this program is clearly working it is time to introduce a Leave it! cue.** After all, there are definitely times when you do not feel like playing the game and a turn-off switch is needed. Teach Leave it! with food tidbits and toys before using it with the biting game. The reason is that M.M. needs to learn the lesson when she isn’t aroused and focused on playing. Once she understands the game present the Leave it! once in awhile when the pup starts the play biting game and then once every 3 or 4 times that play biting is started by the pup. Gradually build up to being able to say Leave it! any time that you do not want to play the game. But, do not totally discontinue the play biting game because for a dog to maintain a soft mouth occasional practice is imperative. Pups over 6 months of age should never make contact with human flesh if properly socialized and trained.
One important tip: Difficult as it is do not grab your hand away from the pup when the biting gets too rough because the pup is certain to reflexively grab for your hand and you are most likely to suffer scrapes from those puppy teeth.
*Occasionally a pup will actually get more excited about the yelp. In that case simply say something like Oops! and leave the scene.
**Short course to teach Leave it! Place a piece of food in one hand and a tastier piece of food in the opposite hand. Let the pup see/smell the first piece of food, close the hand as you say Leave it! You will get sniffing, licking, nibbling, pawing, etc., as the pup makes an effort to get to that tidbit. The INSTANT the pup looks away say YES! and give the food from the other hand. Repeat a dozen times or whatever it takes for the pup to instantly look away from the hand when you say Leave it! Then switch hands.
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